L’Arriere-Main Hermes carre

L’Arriere-Main Hermès carré by Philippe Ledoux 1969 – RARE – Personal Collection

The lovely L’Arriere-Main Philippe Ledoux carré draws its inspiration from a painting by Théodore Géricault entitled Les Croupes, (The Hindquarters/Buttocks).

Théodore Géricault was a French Romantic Painter (1791-1824) from Rouen, France. His oil painting entitled Les Croupes, (The Hindquarters/Buttocks) provided the Inspiration for the 1969 Hermès carré, L’Arriere-Main by Philippe Ledoux

Most likely the studies for this painting found their inspiration at the Royal Stable, the Grande Écurie of Versailles, an impressive structure that could accommodate up to six hundred horses. Constructed during the 17th century under the watchful eye of Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the Royal Stables have been home to the Equestrian Arts Academy (Académie du spectacle équestre) since 2003.

The Great Stables or Royal Stable, the Grande Écurie, at the Palace of Versailles
Les Croupes – close up

Les Croupes, which portrays twenty-four horses from behind is rather an unusual compositions as it features the hindquarters and not the heads of twenty-four horses in three neat rows. Surprisingly there is one defiant horse that stands out as it is turned around facing us, the audience. I cannot help but attribute lightness and humor to this rather unusual arrangement and composition.

Perhaps charmed by this as well was what inspired Philippe Ledoux to reproduce the Les Coupes as a drawing for his 1969, L’Arriere-Main, now highly sought-after design.

L’ARRIERE-MAIN HERMÈS SILK SCARF VINTAGE LEDOUX 1969 – AVAILABLE

Surprisingly Monsieur Ledoux omits the rebellious horse in his drawing but includes the same checkered blankets that are very often found in Géricault’s other paintings. Perhaps it will remain a mystery why Ledoux left the defiant horse out, but included the horse blankets, which undoubtedly link his design to the French master’s. With this the L’Arriere-Main Hermès carré features three rows but only twenty-three hindquarters and not the twenty-four from its original Inspiration.

L’ARRIERE-MAIN HERMES SCARF BY PHILIPPE LEDOUX 90 CM SILK TWILL 1969 – RARE – AVAILABLE

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON

We have all seen the timpanist, some of use “love” this design, some of us are indifferent and the rest … well …

I used to belong to the “rest … well” group. Even as a lover of macrame during me teen years, and as a lifelong crocheter and knitter, I just could not embrace this design.

Perhaps it was the lack of symmetry and repetition that somehow prevented me from appreciating this 1961 Marie-Françoise Héron design.

But looking at it through a different lens, the lens of possibilities, I can finally see and appreciate the beauty of Madame Héron’s timpanist.

The Le Timbalier Hermès carre is gorgeous whether in bold colors or this season’s soft pastels. The suggested textures add to its versatility and culminate in a fabulous scarf and accessory. One that lends itself to be draped and played with in so many creative ways, each time offering a new fresh look.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

Well Hermès decided to re-issue it this season in various colorways and at $470 it has been flying off the shelves and is currently only available in selected boutiques and no longer online.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

But do not despair! You can find a 1990s issue in pristine unworn condition at our eBoutique, Carre de Paris © .

Here is what Hermès© has to say about the Inspiration for this truly iconic Hermès Classic:

Until the end of the Second Empire, the role of the timpanist was to provide the drum beat for French cavalry regiments. The drummer in full dress featured in the center of this scarf, designed in 1961 by Marie-Françoise Héron, plays his instrument with panache. The royal coat of arms with two interlaced L’s seen on his drum evokes the 18th century. The horse, too, is exuberantly dressed. The ceremonial saddle and bridle, like the surround, are ornamented with sumptuous decorative trimmings: lanyards, braids, fringes and twisted cords, not forgetting cartisanes – wooden discs adorned with silver, gold or silk threads.

© Hermès 2022. All rights reserved

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

Folklore Hermes Carre by henri d’Origny

The Folklore Hermès carre was designed by accomplished artist and Hermès Artistic Director Henri d’Origny, who has a number of designs to his name including ties, jewelry and of course many famous carres.

His Eperon d’Or is a sure Must-Have – SOLD

Many of his designs are inspired by the Fashion House’s love affair with saddlery and equestrian paraphernalia, but not his Folklore scarf. Instead of bits and stirrups, we find birds and flowers. Well, I stand corrected, Monsieur d’Origny does manage to squeeze a reference to equestrianism into each corner of his Folklore design.


But what did inspire this design? I cannot help but be reminded of my grandmother’s “Zwiebelmuster” or “cibulak” drawings; watching her quietly sitting at her large wooden kitchen table, following each of her lines with my imaginary paintbrush.

The popular “Blue Onion’ pattern on Meissen Porcelain has been in production since the 18th century
(photo courtesy Kaolin, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

According to Hermès, Henri d’Origny drew his inspiration on

“…popular Russian and Polish imagery, mixed freely with motifs from his own imagination, Henri d’Origny’s design is an appeal to the Slavic soul, while at the same time expressing his own deep attachment to the equestrian arts. Flowers and stylized birds, bright colors and branching forms are framed with harness straps and braid work in this joyous, multicolored design.”

courtesy © Hermès

Folklore Hermès silk scarf by Henri d’Origny (1980 – 1st issue) – Rare – SOLD

At the heart of Life

Au Coeur de la Vie Hermès© carre by Aline Honore was introduced in 2007 and was part of the Spring-Summer Collection and the Year of Dance.

Au Coeur de la Vie Hermès carre by Aline Honore from the Spring-Summer 2007 Collection – GRAIL – SOLD
Au Coeur de la Vie Hermes Silk Scarf (100% silk) – GRAIL 
Designed by Aline Honore in 2007 – SOLD

Life is movement and momentum. It’s also abundance, thanks to which nature fills the voids we know she abhors so much. As an aerial offering, the tops of equatorial forests raise to the sky a thick carpet of foliage, on which thousands of animals and insects lead swarming existences, poorly known, overlapping, fabulous. This suspended treasure of vegetation constitutes a vital reservoir for man and perhaps a biological resource. In other words, a chance for a future.

courtesy La Soie Hermès© Spring-Summer 2007

There is nothing to add to such a lovely and thought provoking description.

Au Coeur de la Vie Hermès© carre by Aline Honore from the Spring-Summer 2007 Collection – GRAIL
SOLD
AU COEUR DE LA VIE HERMES SILK SCARF BY A. HONORE – GRAIL
SOLD
AU COEUR DE LA VIE HERMES SILK SCARF BY A. HONORE – GRAIL
SOLD

PANACHE & FANTAISIE by Hugo Grygkar

If you love horses, you will undoubtedly love the Panache & Fantaisie carre, which was designed by the talented Hugo Grygkar and issued for the first time in 1958/1959.

PANACHE & FANTAISIE by Hugo Grygkar, the Father of the Hermes Carre. (1958)

Hugo Grygkar not only designed the very first carré for Hermès, but he also became Hermès’ most prolific artist. You can read more about the life of this artist and his profound influence on the Hermes carre on my blog by following this link.

Like so many of the early carres, the Panache & Fantaisie showcases horses, a favorite theme, that reflects the Parisian Fashion House’s origins as a harness and saddle maker.

This beautifully detailed composition of show horses with various plumes is worthy of framing.

Without further ado, enjoy close ups of this iconic and highly sought after carre…

Like so many other Hermes scarves, the Panache & Fantaisie took its inspiration from an artifact, a harness with a sleigh bell, which is now part of the Emile-Maurice Hermes collection (photo courtesy Mitto e Belezza, Electa)
The Panache et Fantaisie was part of the Mito e Bellezza Exhibition in Italy
Panache & Fantaisie HERMES, 1959
Panache & Fantaisie HERMES, 1958/1959 – SOLD

Speaking of Dimitri Rybaltchenko…

I just listed another fabulous design by this very talented artist. He is the son of Vladimir Rybaltchenko, who was the great-nephew of Philippe Ledoux, all three responsible for many fabulous Hermès carrés.

Other designs and more information can be found here.

Sous les Orangers Hermès silk scarf  by Dimitri Rybaltchenko – 2003

Under the Orange Trees” has us looking down into a koi pond.

Shadows, sunlight and water refracting a myriad of shapes and colors in the shade of the orange trees…

Sous les Orangers Hermès silk scarf (100% silk) – Pre-Owned
Designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko in 2003

SOUS LES ORANGERS HERMES SCARF BY DIMITRI 90 CM SILK NIB

Sous les Orangers Hermès silk scarf (100% silk) - Pre-Owned Designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko in 2003 Unworn Condition Measures 36" x 36" Copyright Care Tag Signed Hand Rolled Hem Made in France Dusty Rose/Multi - Col. 02 Hermes Scarf box shows signs of use w/handwriting on side of lid in permanent marker

$449.00

ALSACE HERMES SILK SCARF EARLY ISSUE – VERY RARE

This lovely and quite rare HERMES scarf was designed by Françoise de la Perriere and issued in 1960.

Named after one of France’s twenty-two regions, Françoise de la Perrière celebrates this historically unique region in her Hermes Alsace carre . Nestled along the Rhine, Alsace has a rich history and borders Germany to the east. The Romans invaded, settled and established this region by 58 BC as a center of viticulture. This is still the case especially for the Colmar area to this day, where grapes such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer thrive. Throughout history this region between the Vosges Mountains and the river Rhine bounced back and forth between German and French rule making it unique in its language, customs and laws alike. After WWII Alsace officially became part of France.

Its four largest cities, Colmar, Mulhouse, Saverne and finally the world famous Strasbourg are represented here and fly their flags proudly in each of the four corners of this design.

With a population of over one hundred thousand, Mulhouse is the largest city in the Haut-Rhin département, and the second largest in Alsace after Strasbourg.

(photo courtesy Roadaffrair.com)

Strasbourg, is both the capital of the Bas-Rhinand and the largest city of the Grand Est Region of France.

One of the many charming shops along both sides of the Ill river that runs through the heart of Strasbourg

Strasbourg is a beautiful city with a rich historic center, many quaint shops, hotels and restaurants that serve the world famous charcuterie.

Strasbourg is also the official seat of the European Parliament.

Notre Dame – Strasbourg

The cities of Colmar and Saverne are represented in the other two corners.

Saverne has a history dating back to Roman times when it was called Three Taverns (Tres Tabernae Cesaris) as it marked the beginning of a steep incline and was the perfect resting place before such a strenuous endeavor.

Colmar as the driest city in France has the ideal environment for growing the aforementioned Gewürztraminer and Riesling wines. With one of the best preserved centers, Colmar is not just the capital of the Alsatian wine region but a favorite tourist destination.

Colmar also known as the La Petite Venise has a wonderful mixture of early renaissance and half timbered medieval buildings. (photo courtesy viator.com)
Center of the Alsace Hermes Carre

Surrounded by locals in their traditional costumes are two storks, which due to preservation efforts can once again be found abundantly throughout the region’s marshlands.

Symbolically, however, the storks represent the oppressed Alsace longing to return to the bosom of France just like a stork returns year after year to the same nesting place.

The Alsace HERMES scarf is a rare vintage carre that is as special as the region it represents.

Alsace Hermes carre – SOLD

Mors et Gourmettes Silk Jacquard Scarf and its reinvention

Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf Mors et Gourmettes RARE

I must admit, there are scarves that make me feel all tingly at first sight.

Well, the Mors et Gourmettes is one of those scarves!

Henri d’Origny designed this striking carre and HERMÈS brought it first to market in 1961.

Perhaps it is this juxtaposition of industrial meets beautiful that seems so captivating.  I can almost feel the coolness of the metal as my fingers run across the various bits and chains making them clink in the process.

Henri d’Origny’s meticulous attention to detail is showcased in his collection of German and Italian Renaissance bits and curb chains.  Delicate, simple, yet bold they sparkle like suspended jewelry against the luxuriousness and shine of the forest green jacquard silk.

Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf Mors et Gourmettes RARE-9

Since its first issue, this spectacular design has been re-issued numerous times once as a spectacular shawl, but this year as the “re-engineered” Mors et Gourmettes Vichy scarf.

Same spectacular design, but a completely different look!

Or the Mors Et Gourmettes Remix version from 2013/2014

Mors Et Gourmettes Remix Hermes Silk Scarf NIB-4.jpg

Mors Et Gourmettes Remix – SOLD

A quote from the Hermès website:

“…creating new compositions based on familiar harmonies. Borrowed from the world  of music, it describes the ability to adapt or reinterpret an existing theme, giving it a second life. Henri d’Origny has taken the concept to heart, reorchestrating his original score, and reinterpreting his classic creation for future audiences.” (Mors et Gourmettes Vichy © Hermès 2018. All rights reserved.)

Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf Mors et Gourmettes RARE-8

No matter which version you prefer, the Mors et Gourmettes will always be a Classic! SOLD

Le Laboratoire du Temps Carre

Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laboratoire du Temps NIB-5.jpg

Take a journeys through time in Pierre Marie’s Le Laboratoire du Temps Laboratory.  You will be mazed whom you will find and what you will discover along the way.

Is Leonardo painting the Mona Lisa? Do I hear Mozart playing the piano? And over there is that Mr. Armstrong?  “How does it feel to be the first man to walk on the moon?” I want to ask.

Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laboratoire du Temps NIB-6From dinosaurs to great discoveries both on land and in laboratories, they all are captured here in 45 round vignettes.

Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laboratoire du Temps NIB-8

Of course there is room for whimsy in a time laboratory, too as we spy a shopper leaving Hermes in 2012 and in 1937, the birth year of the carre, Émile-Maurice Hermes is inspecting one of his store windows.

Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laboratoire du Temps NIB-12And what kind of Time Laboratory would it be if you could not have a glimpse into the future?

Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laboratoire du Temps NIB-9

So much to see, so much to enjoy…

Discover your favorite place in history at Laboratoire du Temps!

Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laboratoire du Temps NIB-2

Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laboratoire du Temps NIB-3

Cadre Noir, Hermes Silk Scarf

The bold Cadre Noir Hermes Silk Scarf was designed by Colonel G. Margot and first issued in 1963. Re-issued 30 years later, this scarf according to Carrés d’art by Genevieve Fontan is a 3D, which means “quite rare and quite sought after”.

Like so many Hermes carrés, the Cadre Noir too has an equestrian theme.

P1240605

But there is more to this unique scarf…

The Cadre Noir scarf pays homage to the prestigious and elite teachers of the French National Riding School, the École Nationale d’Équitation at Saumur, founded in 1828 and still in existence today. Cadre Noir received its name from the black uniforms worn by their instructors.  The École Nationale d’Équitation is considered to be one of the most prestigious horsemanship schools in the world.

You can visit their website for additional information as well as their current schedule of performances.

File:Cadre noir 19 mai 2012 (7-349).jpg

Présentation publique du Cadre noir, École nationale d’équitation, Saumur (description à compléter) Croquant, 19 May 2012

Cadre Noir HERMES Vintage Silk Scarf-12Cadre Noir Hermes Carre