The Brides de Gala – Opening Store promotional Gavroche

This Special 1987 Issue of Hugo Grygkar’s Brides de Gala was an Opening Store promotional Gavroche that was given away as gift to patrons at the opening of the Hermes Boutique at I Magnin in San Francisco
Close up of the Brides de Gala San Francisco I Magnin promotional gavroche with its early care tag – AVAILBLE

The machine hemmed 17″ or 43 cm square Brides de Gala, the iconic 1957 design by Hugo Grygkar, was a Special Issue and used by Hermes at various boutique and store openings as a promotional giveaway.

I am very pleased to have three out of the seven of the Special Issue mentioned in the Carres d’Art publication, which also mentions Carre de Paris as a trusted Hermes resource.

Hermes opened the Bonwitt Teller location at 25 East Oak Street in Chicago in 1990 – AVAILABLE

Close up of the Care Tag of the Brides de Gala – Chicago Bonwit Teller – AVAILABLE
Hermes arrived in Honolulu @ Ala Moana store – Mc Inery in Hawaii in 2016 – AVAILABLE
A more modern care tag has replaced the vintage early care tag found on the other two pocket squares
Originally designed by Hugo Grygkar in 1957 – here a machine stitched small version used as a promotional item at the 2016 Opening of Hermes in Honolulu @ Ala Moana store – Mc Inery in Hawaii – AVAILABLE

There are currently a total of seven of these Special Issue Brides de Galas documented and they include store openings in Montreal (1968+/-), Palm Beach @ 218 Worth Ave celebrating the opening there in 1977. At the famous Hardy Brothers Jewelers in Sidney in 1982, I Magnin in San Francisco in 1987, Bonwit Teller in Chicago 1990, Geneva, Switzerland in 2011 and Hawaii in 2016.

You can find all three featured in this article at my eBoutique Carre de Paris right now.

La Cite Cavaliere Hermes carre

As with so many Hermès designs, La Cite Cavaliere carre by Marsal Octave from 2019/2020 immediately captured my imagination.

Hermès La Cite Cavaliere Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (personal collection)

Perhaps it was the etching style of this whimsical map of Paris before me, that immediately took my mind back to the many fond memories I have of the City of Lights. While in New York visiting a dear friend, my daughter and I wandered around Chelsea, when I asked, “Want to see what’s new at Hermès”? As soon as we walked into the fashionable Chelsea boutique, we were drawn to the glass counter with its numerous folded carres below. Collectively, our eyes settled on the La Cite Cavaliere. For the Inspiration for this design, please visit my previous blog.

And as much as many of the colorways were difficult to resist, there was one, that undeniably stood out from the rest…

The reason for this post however, is not to write about this absolutely captivating design, but to bring attention to the FAKEs that have begun to infiltrate the market.

Please find below photos of one such FAKE and photos of an authentic Hermès La Cite Cavaliere in the stunning colorway of Green Clay and Steel Gray.

I hate to admit that this is a rather “well” made FAKE and one that at first sight can easily fool the best among us. It was one of my dear friends, a longtime Hermès collector herself, who in her haste and enthusiasm to have found her very own Green Clay colorway, mailed it to me. As soon as I held it, I noticed the feel of the silk as being lighter and somewhat “silkier” than I have learned to expect. This of course peaked my interests and curiosity immediately and I fetched my authentic La Cite Cavaliere.

Of course once one knows what to look for, the differences become rather “obvious”. Hopefully these side-by-side photos will help you navigate and discern what is the real deal. If not, I am always happy to provide Authentication Services for a nominal fee.

Left is a FAKE, whereas on the right is a photo of my authentic Hermès La Cite Cavaliere carre. Please note the difference not just in the colors, but detail of the print itself, the type set, not to mention “quality” and color of the hem.
Left a FAKE, right again, my authentic Hermès carre. Note the “bleed through” on the back side, the hem and care tag on the FAKE. The La Cite Cavaliere was introduced in 2019/2020; by then Hermès had switched to the larger two-sided care tag, the FAKE still has the previously used smaller care tag.
There is no “bleed through” on the authentic Hermès carre on the right, the hem is beautifully hand sewn, and the two-sided larger care tag is the care tag that Hermès switched over to a couple of years ago.
Here a close up of Octave Marsal’s signature. The authentic carre is on top of the FAKE for comparison. Again in this close up the difference in the hem “construction” is not to be missed along with the difference in print quality, type set and detail and of course again, the colors themselves.
I think not much needs to be said here… (authentic Hermès copyright on the left, FAKE on the right)
In this comparison the authentic Hermès carre is on the left, while the crude FAKE is lacking in all that makes an Hermès carre such a prized “commodity”, and as I prefer to refer to the Hermès carre, a Wearable piece of Art.
La Cite Cavaliere Hermès Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (SOLD)
La Cite Cavaliere Hermès Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (SOLD)

2011 The hermes year of the contemporary Artisan

Every year Hermès choses a theme for the entire year with several carre designs dedicated to that particular theme from each of the two annual collections.

Ten years ago, Hermès celebrated “the Contemporary Artisan”.

Here the opening quote from the LE CARRÉ HERMÈS Spring Summer collection:

THE SILK WORKSHOP
Here everything is freedom. The colour, design, history, craftsman, artist, sun, light, each tells its story, but in the end, as they know, they all tell the same one: That of silk on the loose. Knotted in the hair, wound about the hips, it runs, it flies, it goes where the light is ever more luminous, the air softer, the sea warmer; it advances towards summer.

© Hermès 2011

LE PEGASE D’HERMES HERMES SILK SCARF BY CHRISTIAN RENONCIAT from 2011 Spring-Summer – AVAILABLE

Other designs from that same collection…

CUIRS DU DESERT HERMES SCARF BY FRANCOISE DE LA PERRIERE 2011 – SOLD
GRAND MANEGE HERMES SCARF BY HENRI D’ORIGNY ORIGINALLY ISSUED IN 1990 (REISSUED 2011) – AVAILABLE
HERMES SUMMER SILK SCARF LALBHAI by MICHEL DUCHENE ISSUED IN 1995 (REISSUED 2011) – SOLD
LES VOITURES NOUVELLES HERMES SCARF BY JACQUES EUDEL ISSUED IN 1961 (REISSUED IN 2011) – AVAILABLE
EPERON D’OR HERMES SILK SCARF BY HENRI D’ORIGNY ISSUED IN 1974 (REISSUED 2011 – SOLD
LE PEGASE D’HERMES HERMES SILK SCARF BY CHRISTIAN RENONCIAT 90 CM HIGHLY SOUGHT AFTER
$ 599 – AVAILABLE

The underrated & unappreciated Ciels Byzantins HERMES carre

Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_

Ciels Byzantins HERMES silk scarf was designed by Julia Abadie and issued in 1997. 

Now a lot of HERMES scarves receive accolades, some are called “rare”, “sought after”, “collector” and some are even referred to as GRAIL.  But what about Julia Abadie’s Ciels Byzantins? Has it been overlooked by most, including yours truly here?

Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_-12

I do have to confess,  that I have been until now, pretty much “unimpressed” with the Ciels Byzantins.  I have always thought the two peacocks were way too small to take center stage, and yes, there are the half circles and squares, a geometric composition, which I am typically drawn to did absolutely nothing for me.  Certainly nothing like the Monnaies et Symboles des Parisii!

And did I mention it is a jacquard scarf? Even that did not make it register on my HERMES Richter scale.

But boy, was I wrong!

Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_-14

The colors for one, are spectacular.  The bold gold against the Mediterranean blue is simply out of this world.  The patterns? Fabulous! Just like walking across the ancient tile floors I now remember admiring in Malta.

Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_-7Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_-6Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_-5Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_-4

The jacquard silk with its prancing peacocks? Simply luxurious.

But what about this softer color palate?

Most definitely, beautiful in its own right!

Ciels Byzantins Hermes Silk Jacquard Scarf_-15

In any colorway, this truly is a gorgeous scarf; underrated and unappreciated? I say, “NO MORE!!!”

PROJETS CARRES HERMES SCARF BY HENRI D’ORIGNY

Part of the Autumn/Winter 2007 Collection, the Projets Carres by Henri d’Origny may look somewhat different from let’s say his earlier design, the classic L’Instruction du Roy from 1993.

Projets Carres Hermes scarf – Rare 
Designed by Henri d’Origny in 2007 as part of the Autumn/Winter Collection – AVAILABLE
L’Instruction du Roy Hermes scarf on a silk jacquard with riders was designed by Henri d’Origny in 1993 – AVAILABLE

Why? Well, to my knowledge, this is the first design to be created digitally rather than by hand.

Close up of the Projets Carres Hermes scarf by Henri d’Origny from 2007
Close up for comparison of his stunning 1993 L’Instruction du Roy Hermes silk jacquard scarf
Close up of the Projetes Carres
close up of the L’Instruction du Roy

Various riding implements such as whips, stirrups and bits cast their shadows in such a way that the illusion of space is beautifully recreated in this spectacular carre. 

Of course the L’Intruction du Roy is in its own right spectacular and will always be a personal favorite.

L’Instruction du Roy Hermes silk jacquard scarf (100% silk) – Vintage
Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1993
Projets Carres Hermes silk twill scarf COL. – Rare 
Designed by Henri d’Origny in 2007 as part of the Autumn/Winter Collection

The Iconic Deo Juvante Monaco Hermes Carre

The Deo Juvante Monaco Hermès carre was first issued in 1957/1958. Many credit Hugo Grygkar as the artist, who designed this scarf inspired by the coat of arms of Monaco.

Close up of one of the corners of Deo Juvante Monaco Hermès carre

The Genoan House of Grimaldi captured Monaco in 1297 and its motto Deo Juvante, which means “With God’s help”, is still Monaco’s coat of arms today.

Monaco, officially, the Principality of Monaco, is a sovereign city-state, a country, and a micro-state on the French Riviera, halfway between the French cities of Nice to the west and Menton to the east. Tiny in physical size, just about two kilometres, Monaco is among the most luxurious tourist resorts in the world giving it a fame far exceeding its size.

View of Monaco from the Tête de Chien (Dog’s Head) high rock promontory towards Monaco’s world famous harbor, home to some of the most spectacular yachts (that at least, I have ever seen :-))
Casino de Monte Carlo is an entertainment complex, which houses a casino, the Opéra de Monte-Carlo and Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo. Here patrons must wear “proper attire” before they are allowed access to the casino.

Monaco is world famous for its fabulous Mediterranean climate, casino, harbor, Formula I Grand Prix race, man-made beach, AND no income tax. It is no surprise then, that many rich and famous have been calling Monaco home for decades. Among one of its most famous citizens, was Grace Kelly, the Philadelphia born actress, who at the age of twenty-seven married Prince Rainier III of Monaco and became Princess of Monaco in 1956.

Her love affair with Hermès perhaps began when Alfred Hitchcock starred Kelly in his movie How to Catch a Thief. Hitchcock used the Kelly Hermès bag, initially named Sac à dépêches (mail bag) in his 1954 romantic thriller, Grace Kelly apparently fell in love with the bag during the filming. After her marriage, she catapulted the Kelly bag to international stardom when she used it to shield her pregnant belly from the paparazzi in a photo featured on the cover of Life magazine.

She also helped make the Hermès carre popular, when she used the Deo Juvante Monaco as a sling for her broken arm.

The good news is, that you do not need to be a princes or have an injuted arm to wear this striking design…

DEO JUVANTE MONACO HERMES SCARF BY HUGO GRYGKAR 90 CM SILK TWILL

Caty Latham’s mexique carre

Inspired by Mexico’s Mayan culture, Madame Latham’s Mexique Hermès carre beautifully incorporates sculpture and jewelry of this ancient civilization, creating a dramatic and memorable composition.

Initially, the Mayans made jewelry from bone, jaguar teeth, claws, stone, and feathers. Later with the discovery of metals, bronze, silver but particularly gold, became very popular in jewelry design. Precious stones, like jade and turquoise were also incorporated, resulting in some incredible jewelry pieces.

photo courtesy http://www.incamayanaztec.com/ 2018
Teal chrysocolla gems encased in gold sparkle in each of the four corners

Bright fuchsia pink feathers crown the headdress above a gold statue of the ancient Mayan God of Tulum.

A necklace of turquoise and gold beads dangles in front a Mayan calendar.

photo courtesy https://www.timesnownews.com/

Hermès issued the Mexique as part of the spring/summer collection in 1985. Reissued immediately a year later as part of the 1986/1987 autumn/winter collection. Five years later its final re-issue, was part of the 1991/1992 autumn/winter collection. To my knowledge, never reissued since, makes this a rare and highly sought after design and a favorite among Hermès collectors.

Puzzle (II) Hermès© scarf from the 2000 Spring Summer Collection

Every so often a scarf comes along, that challenges both my limited photographic abilities as well as my patience.

I typically enjoy and dedicate numerous hours to photographing scarves making sure colors are represented in the most accurate way possible. Realizing of course, that even if my monitor represents the colors accurately, it does not guarantee that same results will manifest on different monitors or devices.

Puzzle II Hermes scarf by Joachim Metz (2000) – AVAILABLE

But still, I find it imperative, to at least try my best to be as accurate as I possibly can. All my efforts fell short with this Puzzle (II) carre!

This scarf has gorgeously vibrant colors, that with no effort at all, would turn a simple white linen outfit into a fashion sensation!

The blue, which is quite exquisite, is much closer to cerulean than ultramarine as I perceive it. It is just this side of warm and makes the perfect backdrop for the rest of this exciting palette. The yellow and green echo with cool vibrancy. The Duke has taken on more of a parakeet green, while his horse, a blue violet. Together they are framed by a bold cool, deep red. And so, a perfect color composition has been created.

Hoping to find this particular colorway (CW) in the 2000 Hermès Carré booklet, I had no such luck.

So, I must humbly apologize for not being able to capture the vibrancy of this fabulous Joachim Metz’s “Disassembly”.

Gorgeous Colorway of the Hermes Puzzle II carre – close up – AVAILABLE

This is what Hermès had to say about Joachim Metz’s composition that year:

PUZZLE (II)

Immutability is reassuring, true, but at the same time so annoying! Hence the joy of sticking moustaches on the Mona Lisa. The civilised soul is bursting with sacrilegious impulses. Keeping a sense of proportion – for this is not quite sacred defilement – there is a real pleasure in seeing a famous insignia turned inside out. Today it’s the turn of Hermès’ “Duke and Carriage” to be willing victim; it has been iconoclastically taken apart, under the tutelage of the Rosenkavalier. (and in 2020? Moi)

©copyright Hermès 1999

HERMES 2007 Spring-Summer Collection (year of Dance)

Other designs from the same 2007 Collection include:

La Danse du Cosmos – Zoé Pawels – 140cm chiffon

Vif Ardent – Dimitri Rybaltchenko – 90 cm & fringed plain crepe scarf

Belles du Mexique – Virginie Jamin

Ballet Équestre – Hubert de Watrigant

En Duo – Cyrille Diatkine & Sandy Queudrus

Mineraux (reissue) – Hugo Grygkar (1959)

Champs de Courses – Hubert de Watrigant

Soleil (reissue) – Fred Rawyler (2003) – Chiffon Losange

Red Berries – Leigh Cook

Jungle Love (reisssue) – Robert Dallet (2000)

Vol Amoureaux – Zoé Pauwels (also know on the internet as Vol Amoureaux des Azures and mistakenly given credit to Laurence Bourthoumieux))

Boogie Woogie – Sophie Koechlin

Pavois (reissue)- Philippe Ledoux (1964)

Les Mustangs (reissue) – Robert Dallet (1993)

De Passage A Tokyo – Nathalie Vialars

Albums de Colportage – Isabelle Barthel

Bolduc Pointu – Jean-Louis Dumas (1983)

Calèche Élastique Pointu – Bali Barret (2004)

Joséphine Danse – Cyrille Diatkine

Au Coeur de la Vie – Aline Honore

Vive le Vent hermes Carre

The Vive le Vent was part of the 1992 Year by the Sea Collection, which was the theme for that year at HERMÈS©. Designed by the talented Toutsy, who is also known as Laurence Thioune and Laurence Bourthoumieux, her stunning Long live the Wind takes us to the four corners of the world.

Vive le Vent Hermes Silk Scarf by “Toutsy” Laurence Bourthoumieux from 1992 – Available
Vive le Vent by Laurence Toutsy Bourthoumieux Thioune (1992) – SOLD

This is how Hermès introduced this design in the Le Carre Hermès Paris© booklet:

This scarf ripples in the wind like a flag unfurled. Chests fill out to match the great expanse of ocean. We are on board one of those brave vessels of heroic times, ploughing the main in full sail in search of distant horizons conjuring up adventure and sheer poetry. Whether man-of-war or merchantman, the king of the high seas cuts through the foam-tipped waves. And a lusty sea-shanty fills the air.

Vive le Vent by Laurence Toutsy Bourthoumieux Thioune (1992) signed as L.Thioune – SOLD
SOLD

Some interesting facts:

Other designs from that year include:

Grand Fonds – Annie Faivre more about the life of this artist here

Grands Fonds – SOLD

A la Gloire de Guillaume – Loïc Dubigeon

Festival – Henri d’Origny

Festival – AVAILABLE

Vent Portant – Yannick Manier

Vent Portant – AVAILABLE

Feux de Router Apercus la Nuit en Mer –

Kachinas – Kermit Oliver

Kachinas – Coming soon

Musee – Philippe Ledoux more about the life of this artist here

Musee
Musee – SOLD

Le Paradis du Roy – Annie Faivre more about the life of this artist here

Do you know what an hermes carre cost brand new in 1992?

$215 (now I understand the expression “good old days” :-))