Bon Voyage – Off to Paris and beyond

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The Enchanted world of VALÉRIE Dawlat Dumoulin after HERMÈS

Since I wrote a short biography about Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin in my post in May of 2018, I have had the distinct pleasure to make her acquaintance!

As a longtime fan, you can only imagine my delight and how honored I felt having received an email from her! And with that a wonderful relationship began. 

Valerie Dawlat

In her own words …

« When I discovered Carrés de Paris on the Internet, I was so surprised and delighted to read the chapter on my work as a carré artist, that I decided to come in contact with the founder of this lovely and well documented website.

That is how our relationship came to life, with a mutual understanding and taste for the same HERMÈS vintage carrés.

Unfortunately, at the dramatic departure of Jean-Louis Dumas, Hermès emblematic and charismatic CEO, my ten years collaboration was soon over.

I explain to Carrés de Paris, that I was still creating but in a different way : I am, since almost two years, inventing and manufacturing custom jewellery and Carrés de Paris loved them so much that a decision was taken to give them exposure on their website. 

I proposed to associate visually my vintage carrés designs that are for sale at Carrés de Paris to one of my  jewels, and voilà, « just like that », that is how it is all started, how exciting !!! »

Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin 

Here is an introduction to the enchanted world of Madame Valérie … enjoy

IMPOSE TA CHANCE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & BEEARUM BROOCH AVAILABLE
Impose ta Chance Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Beearum Brooch
AVAILABLE
NOUVELLE CALEDONIE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & PAPILLON PAON BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Nouvelle Caledonie Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Papillon Paon Brooch – AVAILABLE
ROCCAILE SPECIAL ISSUE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN & PIC EPEICHE BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Roccaile Special Issue Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Pic Epeiche Brooch
AVAILABLE
JARDIN CREOLE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & DEMOISELLE KAKI BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Jardin Creole Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Demoiselle Kaki Brooch – AVAILABLE

Always an artist, Valérie has created numerous collages and paintings, but more recently discovered a new passion in creating custom jewelry. At first she salvaged and repurposed all of her own jewelry, and as popularity of her one-of-a-kind jewelry grew in her native France, she began to search for unique vintage bits and pieces at flea markets and thrift shops. Self-taught and with an exquisite eye for both beauty and design, she as with her Hermès scarf designs drew her inspiration from flowers, insects, eternal symbols like hearts and crosses, the sea and marine life. She skillfully combines unexpected items with copper wire and magically gives new life to butterflies, flowers and dragonflies!

Merci Mme Valérie de continuer à enrichir notre monde avec de nouvelles créations et une beauté époustouflante.
Ladi

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON

We have all seen the timpanist, some of use “love” this design, some of us are indifferent and the rest … well …

I used to belong to the “rest … well” group. Even as a lover of macrame during me teen years, and as a lifelong crocheter and knitter, I just could not embrace this design.

Perhaps it was the lack of symmetry and repetition that somehow prevented me from appreciating this 1961 Marie-Françoise Héron design.

But looking at it through a different lens, the lens of possibilities, I can finally see and appreciate the beauty of Madame Héron’s timpanist.

The Le Timbalier Hermès carre is gorgeous whether in bold colors or this season’s soft pastels. The suggested textures add to its versatility and culminate in a fabulous scarf and accessory. One that lends itself to be draped and played with in so many creative ways, each time offering a new fresh look.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

Well Hermès decided to re-issue it this season in various colorways and at $470 it has been flying off the shelves and is currently only available in selected boutiques and no longer online.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

But do not despair! You can find a 1990s issue in pristine unworn condition at our eBoutique, Carre de Paris © .

Here is what Hermès© has to say about the Inspiration for this truly iconic Hermès Classic:

Until the end of the Second Empire, the role of the timpanist was to provide the drum beat for French cavalry regiments. The drummer in full dress featured in the center of this scarf, designed in 1961 by Marie-Françoise Héron, plays his instrument with panache. The royal coat of arms with two interlaced L’s seen on his drum evokes the 18th century. The horse, too, is exuberantly dressed. The ceremonial saddle and bridle, like the surround, are ornamented with sumptuous decorative trimmings: lanyards, braids, fringes and twisted cords, not forgetting cartisanes – wooden discs adorned with silver, gold or silk threads.

© Hermès 2022. All rights reserved

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

La Cite Cavaliere Hermes carre

As with so many Hermès designs, La Cite Cavaliere carre by Marsal Octave from 2019/2020 immediately captured my imagination.

Hermès La Cite Cavaliere Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (personal collection)

Perhaps it was the etching style of this whimsical map of Paris before me, that immediately took my mind back to the many fond memories I have of the City of Lights. While in New York visiting a dear friend, my daughter and I wandered around Chelsea, when I asked, “Want to see what’s new at Hermès”? As soon as we walked into the fashionable Chelsea boutique, we were drawn to the glass counter with its numerous folded carres below. Collectively, our eyes settled on the La Cite Cavaliere. For the Inspiration for this design, please visit my previous blog.

And as much as many of the colorways were difficult to resist, there was one, that undeniably stood out from the rest…

The reason for this post however, is not to write about this absolutely captivating design, but to bring attention to the FAKEs that have begun to infiltrate the market.

Please find below photos of one such FAKE and photos of an authentic Hermès La Cite Cavaliere in the stunning colorway of Green Clay and Steel Gray.

I hate to admit that this is a rather “well” made FAKE and one that at first sight can easily fool the best among us. It was one of my dear friends, a longtime Hermès collector herself, who in her haste and enthusiasm to have found her very own Green Clay colorway, mailed it to me. As soon as I held it, I noticed the feel of the silk as being lighter and somewhat “silkier” than I have learned to expect. This of course peaked my interests and curiosity immediately and I fetched my authentic La Cite Cavaliere.

Of course once one knows what to look for, the differences become rather “obvious”. Hopefully these side-by-side photos will help you navigate and discern what is the real deal. If not, I am always happy to provide Authentication Services for a nominal fee.

Left is a FAKE, whereas on the right is a photo of my authentic Hermès La Cite Cavaliere carre. Please note the difference not just in the colors, but detail of the print itself, the type set, not to mention “quality” and color of the hem.
Left a FAKE, right again, my authentic Hermès carre. Note the “bleed through” on the back side, the hem and care tag on the FAKE. The La Cite Cavaliere was introduced in 2019/2020; by then Hermès had switched to the larger two-sided care tag, the FAKE still has the previously used smaller care tag.
There is no “bleed through” on the authentic Hermès carre on the right, the hem is beautifully hand sewn, and the two-sided larger care tag is the care tag that Hermès switched over to a couple of years ago.
Here a close up of Octave Marsal’s signature. The authentic carre is on top of the FAKE for comparison. Again in this close up the difference in the hem “construction” is not to be missed along with the difference in print quality, type set and detail and of course again, the colors themselves.
I think not much needs to be said here… (authentic Hermès copyright on the left, FAKE on the right)
In this comparison the authentic Hermès carre is on the left, while the crude FAKE is lacking in all that makes an Hermès carre such a prized “commodity”, and as I prefer to refer to the Hermès carre, a Wearable piece of Art.
La Cite Cavaliere Hermès Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (SOLD)
La Cite Cavaliere Hermès Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (SOLD)

Auteuil en Mai HERMES Rare Silk Scarf by Carl de Parcevaux 1997

Auteuil en Mai Hermes silk scarf has several delightful vignettes with a rich equestrian history

Auteuil en Mai HERMES Close Up

Auteuil en Mai, Auteuil in May, pays tribute to the Grand Steeple-Chase de Paris run at the Auteuil Racecourse, an 82 acre horse racing facility, specifically designed for steeplechase and in operation since 1874.

The Grand Steeple-Chase de Paris takes place in late May and is the richest, most prestigious and also the most difficult jumps race not only in France but the world.  Only the best jockeys and their steeds compete here and must overcome the 23 obstacles over a 3.75 mile course, home to two of the most difficult jumps in the world.

Auteuil, today part of Auteuil-Neuilly-Passy, is adjacent to the famous Bois de Boulogne Park (the inspiration for one of Hugo Grygkar‘s scarves). As the 16th and possibly the richest of all the Parisian arrondissements, it is also home to the “other” Statue of Liberty.

map copyright of GOOGLE

Carl de Parcevaux, who has brought us other favorites such as Chasse au Bois and Christophe Colombe , has created a rare and highly sought after carre.

At the center is the racecourse with its stands in the distance, surrounded by various vignettes celebrating this famous venue and its prestigious race.

Auteuil en Mai Hermes silk scarf (100% silk) – Highly Sought After
Designed by Carl de Parcevaux in 1997

Get ready for the Holidays

Preview – Joies d’Hiver and Neige D’Antan

You will definitely be ready for this Holiday Season with one of our scarves.

Both coming soon…

 

Plumes Et Grelots HERMES VTG Silk Jacquard Scarf-22

Joies d’Hiver HERMES Silk Jacquard – unworn condition

Plumes Et Grelots HERMES VTG Silk Jacquard Scarf-2

Neige d'Antan HERMES VTG Silk Scarf-4

Neige d'Antan HERMES VTG Silk Scarf-2

Neige D’Antan HERMES Vintage Silk Scarf 

Grace Kelly and the HERMES carre

The following question was posted by one of my readers:

I was wondering if you could tell me the name of design Grace Kelly wore when she used a hermes scarf as a sling? 
Thank you

I thought this an excellent question, so I decided to post it here:

Grace Kelly, the beloved American actress, who after marrying Prince Rainier in the spring of 1956, became Princess of Monaco, did use an HERMES carre as a sling for her broken arm.

grace kelly hermes

Appropriately, it was the Deo Juvante Monaco HERMES scarf, which was issued in 1957/1958.  The artist is unfortunately unknown and the scarf is less common.

Deo Juvante Monaco HERMES Red

Deo Juvante Monaco HERMES Carre 1957/1958 (private collection)

 

 

The Care Tag of an AUTHENTIC Hermes Carre

I thought it was time to revisit this subject matter, as I do get a lot of inquiries to assist in authenticating a scarf that someone inherited, received as a gift or recently purchased from a possibly too-good-to-be-true online source.

To visit my original blog post on the care tag, please follow the link.

Flattered by these inquiries, time permitting, I try to assist, but understandably, cannot spend a lot of time authenticating scarves.  With that in mind,  hopefully this article and photos will be helpful.

The question, “do all (authentic) Hermes scarves have a care tag?” comes up often.  The simple answer is “NO”.

All modern scarves when purchased brand new come with a care tag.  Sewn in one of the corners of the scarf with a couple of stitches using the same color silk thread as the forward facing hem.  This way it can easily be removed without affecting the integrity of the hand stitched hem, the roule.

 

If you are like me the first thing when you purchase a new article of clothing is not just to remove the price tag but also the care tag or anything else that may scratch my persnickety neck.  I do not need a care tag to remind myself, that I am wearing the “REAL THING”.  So from a purely personal preference, I get rid of tags as quickly as I can.

Now my attitude towards the care tag as a professional seller and a collector, changes completely!  A care tag or a “store” tag together with the copyright can be instrumental in the provenance of a carre.  Is the scarf from the original issue or a later re-issue? A care tag can certainly help answer that question.  Even where a scarf was originally purchased can be glanced from a care/store tag.

republic Francaise HERMES Silk Scarf NIB

Republique Francaise Liberte Egalite Fraternite – 1789Joachim Metz, 1989 sold by Franz Sauer Luxury department store in Koeln, Germany, which closed its doors in 2016 after 175 years

 

Franz Sauer Modehaus

Hans Sauer department store, photo courtesy http://www.rundschau-online.de

Not all scarves will have a care tag and understandably, many vintage carres have “lost” theirs along the way.  Originally, Hermes did not use any and we begin to see the use of a small folded over care tag by early 1950s.

1952 - Quai aux Fleurs, Grygkar

1952 – Quai aux Fleurs, Grygkar

Does a care tag increase the value of a carre?  I dare say, yes.  As with the Quai aux Fleurs, the fact that that care tag has hung on for more than half a century is quite an accomplishment! Well done you!

Sometimes a scarf may have up to 3 “care” tags (2 care tags and a store tag, such as Neiman-Marcus for example).

Hommage a Mozart HERMES Silk Scarf_-12

Hermes Hommage a Mozart, Julia Abadie, 1996

 

 

An example of a more modern care tag on a Les Ballets Russes (1996) by Annie Faivre.

Les Ballets Russes HERMES Care Tag and Copyright

Les Ballets Russes (1996) by Annie Faivre

Today Hermes uses a smaller care tag, which can be both white or black depending on the colorway (or maybe the mood of the seamstress).

IMG_1328

Vendanges by Valerie Dawlat-Dumoulin, 2001 (sold)

2001

Monnaies et Symboles de Parisii HERMES Care Tag

Monnaies et Symboles des Parisii, Zoe Pauwels, 2006 (sold)

Cest La Fete HERMES 70 cm scarf care tag.JPG

C’est la Fête 70 cm vintage silk carre is from the 2012 Hermès Men’s Collection. Designed by Daisuke Nomura (sold)

Hopefully, this post has answered some of the questions surrounding the Hermes carre care tag.  Should you require authentication or valuation services,  please contact me for a quote at carredeparis@gmail.com.

Due to time constraints, I can no longer provide this service free of charge.

With or without a care tag, you can be assured you are purchasing an authentic scarf when you purchase from one of my stores.

Please visit my stores at:

Carre de Paris

Carre de Paris on Etsy

Carre de Paris on Rubylane

Carre de Paris on RubyLUX coming soon

 

 

 

Grand Manege HERMES Carre NIB

New Arrival: Grand Manege in unworn condition

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