The Enchanted world of VALÉRIE Dawlat Dumoulin after HERMÈS

Since I wrote a short biography about Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin in my post in May of 2018, I have had the distinct pleasure to make her acquaintance!

As a longtime fan, you can only imagine my delight and how honored I felt having received an email from her! And with that a wonderful relationship began. 

Valerie Dawlat

In her own words …

« When I discovered Carrés de Paris on the Internet, I was so surprised and delighted to read the chapter on my work as a carré artist, that I decided to come in contact with the founder of this lovely and well documented website.

That is how our relationship came to life, with a mutual understanding and taste for the same HERMÈS vintage carrés.

Unfortunately, at the dramatic departure of Jean-Louis Dumas, Hermès emblematic and charismatic CEO, my ten years collaboration was soon over.

I explain to Carrés de Paris, that I was still creating but in a different way : I am, since almost two years, inventing and manufacturing custom jewellery and Carrés de Paris loved them so much that a decision was taken to give them exposure on their website. 

I proposed to associate visually my vintage carrés designs that are for sale at Carrés de Paris to one of my  jewels, and voilà, « just like that », that is how it is all started, how exciting !!! »

Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin 

Here is an introduction to the enchanted world of Madame Valérie … enjoy

IMPOSE TA CHANCE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & BEEARUM BROOCH AVAILABLE
Impose ta Chance Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Beearum Brooch
AVAILABLE
NOUVELLE CALEDONIE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & PAPILLON PAON BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Nouvelle Caledonie Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Papillon Paon Brooch – AVAILABLE
ROCCAILE SPECIAL ISSUE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN & PIC EPEICHE BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Roccaile Special Issue Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Pic Epeiche Brooch
AVAILABLE
JARDIN CREOLE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & DEMOISELLE KAKI BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Jardin Creole Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Demoiselle Kaki Brooch – AVAILABLE

Always an artist, Valérie has created numerous collages and paintings, but more recently discovered a new passion in creating custom jewelry. At first she salvaged and repurposed all of her own jewelry, and as popularity of her one-of-a-kind jewelry grew in her native France, she began to search for unique vintage bits and pieces at flea markets and thrift shops. Self-taught and with an exquisite eye for both beauty and design, she as with her Hermès scarf designs drew her inspiration from flowers, insects, eternal symbols like hearts and crosses, the sea and marine life. She skillfully combines unexpected items with copper wire and magically gives new life to butterflies, flowers and dragonflies!

Merci Mme Valérie de continuer à enrichir notre monde avec de nouvelles créations et une beauté époustouflante.
Ladi

British Heraldry Hermes Carre by Rybal

The British Heraldry Hermes scarf was issued in 1981 making it one of four up to that time designs, that pay homage to the British Crown.

Hermes Silk Scarf Queens Jubilee

The first, Queen, was issued to honor the Queen’s first visit to France in 1961 and was re-issued in 1977 as a special issue for the Royal Jubilee, and renamed to Dieu et Mon Droit (God and my Right) Queen’s Silver Jubilee 1977.

Regina Hermes Silk Scarf-9

Regina by Leila Menchari was conceived for Queen Elizabeth’s second visit in 1972.

The British Heraldry, however, is in honor of the Prince of Wales bearing his coat of arms against the backdrop of stunning Gothic architecture.

British Heraldry Hermes Silk Scarf

The British Heraldry was designed by Vladimir Rybaltchenko, AKA Rybal, and was first issued in 1981 and was according to Hermès, “intended to commemorate the Crown Prince’s marriage while calling on the continuity of history.”

Vladimir Rybaltchenko an accomplished artist, pictured here from the 1991 issue of Le Monde d’Hermès

Rybal

Vladimir Rybaltchenko (1939 – 2002) was the great-nephew of Philippe Ledoux and father of Dimitri Rybaltchenko, all renowned Hermès artists.

Gibiers Hermes carre by Henri de Linares

The highly sought-after Gibiers Hermès scarf has at times been also called A d’Oiseaux et de Lievres.

Gibiers Hermes carre by Henri de Linares (1966) – here a 1997 re-issue – JUST IN

Whether you prefer the official Gibiers, Game, or the unofficial With Birds and Hares its creator, Henry de Linares, gave us a scarf that despite its subject matter, has become a GRAIL, in other words, a highly coveted design.

Close up of Gibiers Hermes carre by Henri de Linares (1966 – here a 1997/1998 re-issue without the border) – AVAILABLE

Perhaps it is the detail with which the artist captures the bounty after a hunt; or perhaps his skillfully layered composition that creates such a gorgeous and timeless accessory. Born in 1904, Henri de Linares was a prolific French artist, whose primary focus were detailed studies of hunting trophies.

Henri de Linares, French artist and the creator of numerous Hermes scarves (1904-1987)

I have written about the artist and what is probably my personal favorite of his, the Le Retour du Chasseur (or Lapins Morts).

Henri de LINARES (1904-1987) Bécassines (photo courtesy http://www.invaluable.com)

His still life drawings, lifelike (the irony not withstanding), filled with such incredible detail, are reminiscent of paintings of the early 17th century Northern Renaissance artists. But luckily for us, we do not have to spend thousands to have one of those, we have the beautiful Gibiers Hermes carre, which is not just the ideal accessory but can easily double as a gorgeous wall display.

Gibiers Hermes Scarf by Henri de Linares 90cm Silk Twill w/BOX – AVAILABLE
Early Issue Gibiers Hermès carre – SOLD
Early Issue Gibiers Hermès carre – SOLD
Gibiers Hermès carre – SOLD

L’INSTRUCTION DU ROY HERMES SCARF BY HENRi D’ORIGNY & the Book that inspired it

I have now for a long time been in love with this d’Origny design.

No-one else, in my opinion, can arrange, bits, bridles, gourmette chains and reigns as masterfully as Henri d’Origny.
In his scarves these ordinary objects take on extraordinary qualities. With a single brushstroke he transforms a simple bit into a stunning piece of jewelry.

Monsieur d’Origny began his career at Hermes in 1958 when he first designed several of the now iconic ties, most notably, his Elephants. More on that in a separate post on Hermes ties. (work in progress).
“When I do my designs, it is like writing music,” he says. “My vocabulary is graphic, repetitive, geometric, with the base of equestrian elements.” It is exactly this graphic, repetitive and geometric quality that speaks to me.

Other examples of d’Origny’s designs include Classics such as Mors et Gourmettes, Le Mors a la Conetable, Grand Manege, Grand Tenue, Eperon d’Or and a more recent design, his Projets Carres.

Mors et Gourmettes Hermes scarf by Henri d’Origny (1961) – SOLD
Le Mors a la Conetable VTG HERMES Silk Scarf
Le Mors a la Conetable HERMES Scarf by Henri d’Origny (1970) – SOLD
Grand Manege Hermes silk scarf (100% silk) – Vintage
Designedby Henri d’Origny in 1990 – SOLD
Grand Tenue Hermes scarf by Henri d’Origny (1990).  Here is a very Special Edition for the Groupe Societe Suisse from 1998 – SOLD
Eperon d’Or Hermes scarf by Henri d’Origny (1974) – SOLD
Projets Carres Hermes silk scarf by Henri d’Origny was issued in 2007 more on this particular design can be found in this earlier post here

But now back to his L’Instruction du Roy carre, which takes its inspiration from a book written by Antoine de Pluvinel, titled L’instruction Du Roy: En L’exercice De Monter a Cheval, Royal Instruction: In The Exercise Of Riding A Horse.

Almost four hundred years later, Pluvinel’s work is still considered one of the most important books ever written about the art of horsemanship.

Antoine de Pluvinel (1552-1620) was the first French riding master, who had great influence on modern dressage and is perhaps best known for his kind, humane training methods. He was the principal esquire, tutor to King Louis XIII

Many of Henri d’Origny’s designs have equestrian elements in them, and perhaps it is their repetitive, geometric symmetry that makes them both exquisite and timeless and therefore True HERMES Classics!

Some of Henri d’Origny’s pieces currently available at Carre de Paris can be enjoyed here.

L’INSTRUCTION DU ROY HERMES SCARF BY HENRY D’ORIGNY 90 CM SILK JACQUARD OFF WHITE
ARABESQUES HERMES REVERSIBLE OPERA SILK SCARF OR SHAWL BY HENRI D’ORIGNY – RARE
LE MORS A LA CONETABLE VINTAGE HERMES SILK DRESS NAVY SZ 38
LE MORS A LA CONETABLE HERMES 2 PIECE SILK ENSEMBLE – RARE

the artist behind the chiens et valets RARE hermes Scarf

This might just be one of the prettiest Charles-Jean Hallo’s designs. But what am I saying, there are so many others…

Chiens et Valets Hermes Vintage Scarf from 1963 by Charles-Jean Hallo

His 1963 Chiens et Valets, Dogs and “their” Handlers, is just one of about fourteen designs by this talented French artist for the Maison Hermes.

Center of the Chiens et valets Hermes scarf – AVAILABLE

Monsieur Hallo was born in Lille near the Belgium border on January 13, 1882, but spent his childhood in Dijon where he later studied art at the École des Beaux Arts. After his studies, he relocated to Paris, where he specialized in etching at first. As the world prepared for the first World War, he followed in his father’s footsteps when he joined the military and became an aviary photographer. By the time World War II erupted he rejoined, but by then too old to serve, he became a photographer instructor in the air force.

Although most of us know Charles-Jean Hallo for his work for Hermes, he is best known for his posters for private railroads as well as other advertising material and known in the art world simply as ALO.

An advertisement for the travel industry to promote Chamonix-Mont Blanc tourism (photo courtesy invaluable) – interestingly familiar skier 🙂
Chemins de fer Paris-Orléans-Midi. Château d’Amboise (Chapelle St.-Hubert) ca 1935 (photo courtesy MAD)

His talents included drawing, watercolor, gouache, etching and wood engraving. He was enlisted by Hermes in the mid 1950s and his Grande Venerie Royale (1956) seems to be his first of a total of fourteen designs all depicting various hunting scenes. His Val de Loire might have preceded it, but its date is unknown.

Monsieur Hallo died in 1969 but his legacy lives on.

He has left us with some of the most beautiful Hermes scarves, all highly sought after and collected around the world. Here is a sampling of his masterfully executed hunting scenes.

Grande Venerie Royale Hermes scarf by Charles Jean Hallo (1956) – SOLD 
À Cor et à Cri Hermes by Charles Jean Hallo (1960) – SOLD
Épisodes de la Chasse à Courre Hermes RARE Vintage
Design by Charles Jean Hallo (1961) – SOLD
Louveterie Royale Hermes silk Jacquard scarf by Charles Jean Hallo (1961) – AVAILABLE in two different colorways
Petite Venerie Hermes scarf by Charles Jean Hallo (1968) – AVAILABLE
La Tenue de Venerie Hermes scarf by Charles Jean Hallo (1964) – SOLD
Val de Loire Hermes scarf by Charles Jean Hallo (unknown) – Personal Collection
Vautrait du Roy Hermes scarf by Charles Jean Hallo and originally (1966) – SOLD
Venerie des Princes Hermes silk jacquard scarf by Charles Hallo (1957) – SOLD

Decoupages Hermes carre

I have to admit, for some reason I have never been a fan of Anne Rosat’s Decoupages Hermes design until now!

Somehow, it lacked a certain level of “sophistication” , élégance, for a lack of a better word. Or worse :-), it reminded me of the many Sunday afternoons when I was expected to watch Heidi*, a Japanese cartoon, with my family. As a teen this was bordering on torture! Although looking back, maybe it was not as bad as I thought at the time.

image courtesy Heidi: A Girl of the Alps (Japanese TV Series 1974)

(*Heidi, Girl of the Alps, is an animated Japanese series that aired on German TV in the mid 70s. And as the name suggests it is based on the Swiss novel Heidi’s Years of Wandering and Learning by Johanna Spyri).

But really? How could I have ever resisted this charming scarf? It is beautifully filled with so many lovely subject matters! What delightful story telling!

“de·cou·page” is the art of decorating surfaces by applying typically paper cutouts and then coating them with several layers of varnish or lacquer as a way to preserve the often delicate cut outs. This form of decorating of objects is believed to have started in Siberia where nomads honored the tombs of their deceased with cut out felt decorations. By the 12th century paper had replaced felt and this practice found its way to Europe where it was used to adorn anything from boxes to lanterns and even windows.

Anne Rosat is an artist, who specializes in Papierschnitt, a Swisss art form which incorporates decoupage. But why should I tell you about Madame Rosat and her art when you can hear about it in her own words…enjoy!

The simply lovely Decoupage Hermes carre from 1997 by Anne Rosat
Short video of the delightful Hermes carre

PANACHE & FANTAISIE by Hugo Grygkar

If you love horses, you will undoubtedly love the Panache & Fantaisie carre, which was designed by the talented Hugo Grygkar and issued for the first time in 1958/1959.

PANACHE & FANTAISIE by Hugo Grygkar, the Father of the Hermes Carre. (1958)

Hugo Grygkar not only designed the very first carré for Hermès, but he also became Hermès’ most prolific artist. You can read more about the life of this artist and his profound influence on the Hermes carre on my blog by following this link.

Like so many of the early carres, the Panache & Fantaisie showcases horses, a favorite theme, that reflects the Parisian Fashion House’s origins as a harness and saddle maker.

This beautifully detailed composition of show horses with various plumes is worthy of framing.

Without further ado, enjoy close ups of this iconic and highly sought after carre…

Like so many other Hermes scarves, the Panache & Fantaisie took its inspiration from an artifact, a harness with a sleigh bell, which is now part of the Emile-Maurice Hermes collection (photo courtesy Mitto e Belezza, Electa)
The Panache et Fantaisie was part of the Mito e Bellezza Exhibition in Italy
Panache & Fantaisie HERMES, 1959
Panache & Fantaisie HERMES, 1958/1959 – SOLD

As part of our “Around the World” with Hermes

theme for this month’s Featured Collection, how can I not include another Dallet Classic, his Equateur carre from 1988?

Robert Dalett was an incredibly gifted self-taught artist, who designed a number of very well known carres for the Maison Hermes. Whether it his Jungle Love, Sichuan, Kenya or La Vie Precieuse de la Mediterranee, all of his designs are incredibly vivid and lifelike. His love of animals becomes evident in all of his scarves, which are like windows into an exotic and magical world.

More about the life and work of Monsieur Dallet can be found on his website and some examples of his work for Hermes can be enjoyed below:

JUNGLE LOVE HERMES SILK SCARF BY ROBERT DALLET DIP DYE 90CM SILK – SOLD
HALTE EN CAMARGUE HERMES SILK SCARF BY ROBERT DALLET – SOLD
other colorways coming soon
LA VIE PRECIEUSE DE LA MEDITERRANEE HERMES SILK SCARF BY ROBERT DALLET – SOLD
HERMES SILK SCARF EQUATEUR 90CM TWILL BLUE – SOLD
HERMES JUNGLE LOVE BROWN CW W/BOX – SOLD
HERMES SILK JACQUARD SCARF KENYA BY ROBERT DALLET – SOLD
EQUATEUR HERMES SCARF BY ROBERT DALLET 90CM SILK NIB
$ 449 – JUST SOLD
HERMES SILK SCARF LA VIE PRECIEUSE DE LA MEDITERRANEE 90CM TWILL – SOLD
HERMES SILK TWILL SCARF JUNGLE LOVE PINK W/BOX – SOLD
HERMES SILK TWILL SCARF TENDRESSE FELINE NIB – SOLD

We have just added a Wishlist undefinedicon to our Carre de Paris store, so that you can be notified when your favorite design becomes available.

Tanzanie Hermes silk scarf by Robert Dallet

Not much needs to be said about the Tanzanie Hermes silk scarf;

The lovingly depicted flora and fauna of Tanzania speak for themselves…

This exquisite carre was designed by Robert Dallet and issued as part of the fall/winter collection in 1997/1998 for Hermès’ Year of Africa. Monsieur Dallet’s talents and love of animals come to life in individual vignettes celebrating Tanzania’s beauty. This East African country is best known for its vast wilderness, which includes the plains of the Serengeti National Park.

Now you can enjoy the splendors of the Serengeti without ever leaving home…

Tanzanie Hermes silk scarf (100% silk) – Vintage
Designed by Robert Dallet in 1997/1998 for Hermès’ Year of Africa fall/winter collection

TANZANIE HERMES SCARF BY ROBERT DALLET 90CM SILK NIB

Tanzanie Hermes silk scarf (100% silk) - Vintage Designed by Robert Dallet in 1997/1998 for Hermès' Year of Africa fall/winter collection Unworn Condition - no signs of wear Measures: 36" x 36" Copyright Hand Rolled Hem Made in France Cream/Multi Hermes Scarf Box shows signs of use w/writing on lid

$449.00

Other stunning scarves by Robert Dallet can be enjoyed and purchased at Carre de Paris

The Winter Gardens -Jardins d’Hiver

Annie Faivre used her magical talents when she created the Jardins d’Hiver Hermès carre.

Introduced in 2007 in several color combinations, the celadon green colorway is still my personal favorite.

Jardins d’Hiver by Annie Faivre – 2007
The Jardins d’Hiver in the bold and striking Rose Vif/Vert/Creme Col. (Hot pink/Green/Cream – SOLD

With so much to see and explore, it is easy to get lost in this verdant paradise. Around every turn, we stumble upon legendary gardens like the tiered Hanging Gardens of Babylon.

We may linger and pause in the gardens of the Villa Borghese as we take in the sweet scent of the orange blossom.

Then suddenly around the corner we find ourselves lost in the midst of a medieval maze.

The Alhambra, the Taj-Mahal and the Majorelle in Marrakesh are all brought together with the skilled hand of the artist into a place of abundance and tranquility where light and shadow strike the perfect balance.

JARDINS D’HIVER HERMES SCARF BY ANNIE FAIVRE 90 CM SILK
SOLD
Jardins d’Hiver Hermes carre from 2007 by Annie Faivre is a sure knockout in this hot pink color way – SOLD