Are all Hermes scarves signed?

This was a question I recently received from a client. Simple answer is “No”.

It is true, that most artists do. This includes early artists, such as Philippe Ledoux, Xavier de Poret and Henry de Linares.

Promenades de Paris HERMES Authentic Vintage Carre Philippe Ledoux Signature

Hermes Silk Scarf Promenades de Paris, Philippe Ledoux, 1962 First Issue

Les Poulains HERMES carre by Xavier de Poret - 1960

Les Poulains HERMES carre by Xavier de Poret – 1960

Gibiers HERMES VTG Carre H. de Linares Signature and Early Copyright

Gibiers HERMES Carre by Henry de Linares , 1966

But then there is Hugo Grygkar, who designed the very first Hermes scarf, Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches in 1937 and so many others.

Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches Hermes Silk Scarf Rare VTG-3

Monsieur Grygkar never signed any of his creations.  Christiane Vauzelles preferred to leave her 26 designs unsigned including her Caraibes.

Now it can also happen that you come across a scarf, that you know was originally signed but this one lacks the signature.

A perfect example of this is the ever-so-popular Astrologie (also known as Dies et Hore because that is what it says on the scarf itself and it is commonly assumed that that is the name of the scarf.

Artist: Francoise Faconnet

Year: 1963, 1970s, 1980, 1988, 1999, 2003, 2008, 2010 (as Dip Dye 90cm)

What I have come across is that seen with some re-issuesthe signature on a re-issue or the signature, originally in black ink now on a particular reissue where the background is also black

Dies et Hore HERMES Silk Scarf_

Dies et Hore Astrologie HERMES Silk Scarf (6)

HERMÈS Le Bois De Boulogne Carre Hugo Grygkar, 1957 by Carre de Paris

One of my all time now at Carre de Paris

Enjoy this short video preview:

Les Bois de Boulogne Hermes silk twill scarf (100% silk) – Early Issue
Designed by Hugo Grygkar in 1957 – SOLD
Les Bois de Boulogne Hermes scarf – 1980s reissue lacks black behind the swans
Designed by Hugo Grygkar in 1957 – SOLD
Le Bois de Boulogne, Hugo Grygkar, 1957
Le Bois de Boulogne, Hugo Grygkar, 1957 – SOLD

LE BOIS DE BOULOGNE HERMES SCARF BY HUGO GRYGKAR 90 CM SILK TWILL – EARLY ISSUE

Les Bois de Boulogne Hermes silk twill scarf (100% silk) - Early Issue Designed by Hugo Grygkar in 1957 Excellent Vintage Condition - please see details below* Measures 36" x 36" Unsigned - this artist did not sign any of his designs Early Copyright Hand Rolled Hem - flat, puckering with stitching showing Made in France Blue/Off White/Black *two areas of distressed silk, a couple of faint spots, a small spot, possible very light grey color transfer of coaches that looks like it is part of the design. Also note condition of hem

$399.00

Here a short bio about Hugo Grygkar, who design so many of the early Hermes carres.

Hermes Silk Scarf Équipements Civils et Militaires 1948 VERY RARE

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE

The Équipements Civils et Militaires in this same colorway was on display at the Mitto e Bellezza HERMES Scarf exhibit in Tuscany, Rome and Paris

Hugo Grygkar‘s Équipements Civils et Militaires won its rightful place at the MITO E BELLEZZA, Myth and Beauty, Exhibition, (more about this exhibit in a future blog) which was an exhibit that featured 76 vintage Hermes scarves and the historical objects that inspired them.  Their common thread? Napoleon.

Hugo Grygkar’s Équipements Civils et Militaires showcases four types of saddles, both civilian and military, that were popular during Napoleon’s reign.

Grygkar skillfully depicts the various styles of saddles on horses in 4 separate vignettes.  There are the ladies’ saddles, the English, the French as well as those preferred by Napoleon’s military branch, the French Hussars.

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE-5

On the right side of the scarf we see the heading, Équipages a la Française  – the French saddles.  The highly decorated saddle in full view is the one Napoléon used on the day of his coronation.

On the top of the scarf we find the English saddles.  Much smaller in size and more padded, they made for a far more comfortable ride.

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE-6

At the center bottom, are military saddles used by the Hussar officers during Napoleon’s rule.  France established a number of Hussar regiments from the mid seventeenth century on.  Originally from Hungary and Germany, by Napoleon’s reign most came from German-speaking frontier regions within France itself.  Not as comfortable, these saddles were made partially of wood and leather. One of the identifying characteristics of this saddle was its elongated shape and extension in the back.

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE-3

Last but not least, on the left side of the scarf are the saddles made exclusively for the Ladies, Equipements pour le cheval de Dame.

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE-4

Sophisticated and smaller in size, these saddles were quite lovely.  Their style remained popular well into the 19th century.  It would not be unlikely to spot a lady riding her mare in a similar saddle through the Bois de Boulogne or the Tuileries Gardens.

Some hundred years later the same ladies would surely sport a carre or two…

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE-13

Équipements Civils et Militaires Hermes carre from 1948 

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE-12

Equipements Civils et Militaires HERMES Silk Scarf Extremely RARE-11

Hermes Silk Scarf Équipements Civils et Militaires from 1948 is quite rare and definitely part of  history – SOLD

Les Ponts de Paris HERMES Scarf

If you are like me and love Paris, then here is one more scarf for you, the Les Ponts de Paris.

Les Ponts de Paris Hermes Silk Scarf

Hermes Silk Scarf Les Ponts de Paris Black NIB-3.jpg

At its very center is Île de la Cité with Notre Dame peeking from behind the trees and the special Pont Neuf running straight through its center, the very heart of the City on the Seine.

Hugo Grygkar’s Les Ponts de Paris features five spectacular bridges that span across the Seine.

The Pont de la Concorde is an arch bridge and at the very top of the scarf.  It connects the Quai des Tuileries at the Place de la Concorde on the right side and the Qaui d’Orsey on the left. Commissioned in 1787 it has kept its original name.

Pont_de_la_Concorde_Palais_Bourbon_Paris

Pont de la Concorde, Paris (courtesy Wikimedia Commons)

The second from the top is either the Pont au Change or the Pont Saint-Michel. Both bridges have very similar designs and bear the “N” for Napoleon III, who had the Pont au Change rebuilt during his reign. The Boulevard du Palais connects the Pont au Change to the Pont Saint-Michel, its counterpart on the Left Bank which as the name suggests links the Place Saint-Michel on the left bank to the Île de la Cité.

Pont Neuf a Paris HERMES Vtg Carre

Pont Neuf a Paris HERMES Vtg Carre

And in the heart of Paris and at the center of the scarf is the crown jewel, the Pont Neuf, and if you follow my blog, you will know my favorite of all the bridges (and scarves :-)) (please see separate post about the Pont Neuf carre)

Pont Neuf Paris

Pont Neuf Paris

Pont l’Alma as depicted by Monseur Grygkar unfortunately no longer exists.  Named after a famous battle, the l’Alma’s most famous statue, the Zouave (on the left on the scarf) commemorates the soldiers from one of France’s African regiments. Popular with the public, the Zouave was used as an informal water gauge in the Seine.  The original bridge was replaced in the 1970s with a girder bridge, but the statues including the popular soldier were incorporated into its modern design.

Last but not least is the Pont des Invalides, which is at the bottom of the scarf.   It is the lowest bridge across the Seine, and west of the spectacular Pont Alexandre III.

All in all the Les Ponts de Paris is a Classic. Simple and elegant it tells a story and captures the essence of Paris. Take it along and let it transport you to the City of Lights on the banks of the Seine…

Hermes Silk Scarf Les Ponts de Paris-9.jpg

Hermes Les Ponts de Paris Silk Scarf Blue Colorway – SOLD

Hermes Silk Scarf Les Ponts de Paris Black NIB.jpg