The Enchanted world of VALÉRIE Dawlat Dumoulin after HERMÈS

Since I wrote a short biography about Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin in my post in May of 2018, I have had the distinct pleasure to make her acquaintance!

As a longtime fan, you can only imagine my delight and how honored I felt having received an email from her! And with that a wonderful relationship began. 

Valerie Dawlat

In her own words …

« When I discovered Carrés de Paris on the Internet, I was so surprised and delighted to read the chapter on my work as a carré artist, that I decided to come in contact with the founder of this lovely and well documented website.

That is how our relationship came to life, with a mutual understanding and taste for the same HERMÈS vintage carrés.

Unfortunately, at the dramatic departure of Jean-Louis Dumas, Hermès emblematic and charismatic CEO, my ten years collaboration was soon over.

I explain to Carrés de Paris, that I was still creating but in a different way : I am, since almost two years, inventing and manufacturing custom jewellery and Carrés de Paris loved them so much that a decision was taken to give them exposure on their website. 

I proposed to associate visually my vintage carrés designs that are for sale at Carrés de Paris to one of my  jewels, and voilà, « just like that », that is how it is all started, how exciting !!! »

Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin 

Here is an introduction to the enchanted world of Madame Valérie … enjoy

IMPOSE TA CHANCE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & BEEARUM BROOCH AVAILABLE
Impose ta Chance Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Beearum Brooch
AVAILABLE
NOUVELLE CALEDONIE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & PAPILLON PAON BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Nouvelle Caledonie Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Papillon Paon Brooch – AVAILABLE
ROCCAILE SPECIAL ISSUE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN & PIC EPEICHE BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Roccaile Special Issue Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Pic Epeiche Brooch
AVAILABLE
JARDIN CREOLE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & DEMOISELLE KAKI BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Jardin Creole Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Demoiselle Kaki Brooch – AVAILABLE

Always an artist, Valérie has created numerous collages and paintings, but more recently discovered a new passion in creating custom jewelry. At first she salvaged and repurposed all of her own jewelry, and as popularity of her one-of-a-kind jewelry grew in her native France, she began to search for unique vintage bits and pieces at flea markets and thrift shops. Self-taught and with an exquisite eye for both beauty and design, she as with her Hermès scarf designs drew her inspiration from flowers, insects, eternal symbols like hearts and crosses, the sea and marine life. She skillfully combines unexpected items with copper wire and magically gives new life to butterflies, flowers and dragonflies!

Merci Mme Valérie de continuer à enrichir notre monde avec de nouvelles créations et une beauté époustouflante.
Ladi

The Brides de Gala – Opening Store promotional Gavroche

This Special 1987 Issue of Hugo Grygkar’s Brides de Gala was an Opening Store promotional Gavroche that was given away as gift to patrons at the opening of the Hermes Boutique at I Magnin in San Francisco
Close up of the Brides de Gala San Francisco I Magnin promotional gavroche with its early care tag – AVAILBLE

The machine hemmed 17″ or 43 cm square Brides de Gala, the iconic 1957 design by Hugo Grygkar, was a Special Issue and used by Hermes at various boutique and store openings as a promotional giveaway.

I am very pleased to have three out of the seven of the Special Issue mentioned in the Carres d’Art publication, which also mentions Carre de Paris as a trusted Hermes resource.

Hermes opened the Bonwitt Teller location at 25 East Oak Street in Chicago in 1990 – AVAILABLE

Close up of the Care Tag of the Brides de Gala – Chicago Bonwit Teller – AVAILABLE
Hermes arrived in Honolulu @ Ala Moana store – Mc Inery in Hawaii in 2016 – AVAILABLE
A more modern care tag has replaced the vintage early care tag found on the other two pocket squares
Originally designed by Hugo Grygkar in 1957 – here a machine stitched small version used as a promotional item at the 2016 Opening of Hermes in Honolulu @ Ala Moana store – Mc Inery in Hawaii – AVAILABLE

There are currently a total of seven of these Special Issue Brides de Galas documented and they include store openings in Montreal (1968+/-), Palm Beach @ 218 Worth Ave celebrating the opening there in 1977. At the famous Hardy Brothers Jewelers in Sidney in 1982, I Magnin in San Francisco in 1987, Bonwit Teller in Chicago 1990, Geneva, Switzerland in 2011 and Hawaii in 2016.

You can find all three featured in this article at my eBoutique Carre de Paris right now.

L’Arriere-Main Hermes carre

L’Arriere-Main Hermès carré by Philippe Ledoux 1969 – RARE – Personal Collection

The lovely L’Arriere-Main Philippe Ledoux carré draws its inspiration from a painting by Théodore Géricault entitled Les Croupes, (The Hindquarters/Buttocks).

Théodore Géricault was a French Romantic Painter (1791-1824) from Rouen, France. His oil painting entitled Les Croupes, (The Hindquarters/Buttocks) provided the Inspiration for the 1969 Hermès carré, L’Arriere-Main by Philippe Ledoux

Most likely the studies for this painting found their inspiration at the Royal Stable, the Grande Écurie of Versailles, an impressive structure that could accommodate up to six hundred horses. Constructed during the 17th century under the watchful eye of Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the Royal Stables have been home to the Equestrian Arts Academy (Académie du spectacle équestre) since 2003.

The Great Stables or Royal Stable, the Grande Écurie, at the Palace of Versailles
Les Croupes – close up

Les Croupes, which portrays twenty-four horses from behind is rather an unusual compositions as it features the hindquarters and not the heads of twenty-four horses in three neat rows. Surprisingly there is one defiant horse that stands out as it is turned around facing us, the audience. I cannot help but attribute lightness and humor to this rather unusual arrangement and composition.

Perhaps charmed by this as well was what inspired Philippe Ledoux to reproduce the Les Coupes as a drawing for his 1969, L’Arriere-Main, now highly sought-after design.

L’ARRIERE-MAIN HERMÈS SILK SCARF VINTAGE LEDOUX 1969 – AVAILABLE

Surprisingly Monsieur Ledoux omits the rebellious horse in his drawing but includes the same checkered blankets that are very often found in Géricault’s other paintings. Perhaps it will remain a mystery why Ledoux left the defiant horse out, but included the horse blankets, which undoubtedly link his design to the French master’s. With this the L’Arriere-Main Hermès carré features three rows but only twenty-three hindquarters and not the twenty-four from its original Inspiration.

L’ARRIERE-MAIN HERMES SCARF BY PHILIPPE LEDOUX 90 CM SILK TWILL 1969 – RARE – AVAILABLE

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON

We have all seen the timpanist, some of use “love” this design, some of us are indifferent and the rest … well …

I used to belong to the “rest … well” group. Even as a lover of macrame during me teen years, and as a lifelong crocheter and knitter, I just could not embrace this design.

Perhaps it was the lack of symmetry and repetition that somehow prevented me from appreciating this 1961 Marie-Françoise Héron design.

But looking at it through a different lens, the lens of possibilities, I can finally see and appreciate the beauty of Madame Héron’s timpanist.

The Le Timbalier Hermès carre is gorgeous whether in bold colors or this season’s soft pastels. The suggested textures add to its versatility and culminate in a fabulous scarf and accessory. One that lends itself to be draped and played with in so many creative ways, each time offering a new fresh look.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

Well Hermès decided to re-issue it this season in various colorways and at $470 it has been flying off the shelves and is currently only available in selected boutiques and no longer online.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

But do not despair! You can find a 1990s issue in pristine unworn condition at our eBoutique, Carre de Paris © .

Here is what Hermès© has to say about the Inspiration for this truly iconic Hermès Classic:

Until the end of the Second Empire, the role of the timpanist was to provide the drum beat for French cavalry regiments. The drummer in full dress featured in the center of this scarf, designed in 1961 by Marie-Françoise Héron, plays his instrument with panache. The royal coat of arms with two interlaced L’s seen on his drum evokes the 18th century. The horse, too, is exuberantly dressed. The ceremonial saddle and bridle, like the surround, are ornamented with sumptuous decorative trimmings: lanyards, braids, fringes and twisted cords, not forgetting cartisanes – wooden discs adorned with silver, gold or silk threads.

© Hermès 2022. All rights reserved

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

The Inspiration for the LE JARDIN DE LA MAHARANI

Leave it to Annie Faivre to create another wonderfully intricate and a perfect scarf for summer, her Le Jardin de la Maharani. Dedicated to a princess, this scarf will make anyone who wears it feel like one…

LE JARDIN DE LA MAHARANI HERMES SCARF BY ANNIE FAIVRE 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE
LE JARDIN DE LA MAHARANI HERMES SCARF BY ANNIE FAIVRE 90 CM SILK NIB – SOLD

Gibiers Hermes carre by Henri de Linares

The highly sought-after Gibiers Hermès scarf has at times been also called A d’Oiseaux et de Lievres.

Gibiers Hermes carre by Henri de Linares (1966) – here a 1997 re-issue – JUST IN

Whether you prefer the official Gibiers, Game, or the unofficial With Birds and Hares its creator, Henry de Linares, gave us a scarf that despite its subject matter, has become a GRAIL, in other words, a highly coveted design.

Close up of Gibiers Hermes carre by Henri de Linares (1966 – here a 1997/1998 re-issue without the border) – AVAILABLE

Perhaps it is the detail with which the artist captures the bounty after a hunt; or perhaps his skillfully layered composition that creates such a gorgeous and timeless accessory. Born in 1904, Henri de Linares was a prolific French artist, whose primary focus were detailed studies of hunting trophies.

Henri de Linares, French artist and the creator of numerous Hermes scarves (1904-1987)

I have written about the artist and what is probably my personal favorite of his, the Le Retour du Chasseur (or Lapins Morts).

Henri de LINARES (1904-1987) Bécassines (photo courtesy http://www.invaluable.com)

His still life drawings, lifelike (the irony not withstanding), filled with such incredible detail, are reminiscent of paintings of the early 17th century Northern Renaissance artists. But luckily for us, we do not have to spend thousands to have one of those, we have the beautiful Gibiers Hermes carre, which is not just the ideal accessory but can easily double as a gorgeous wall display.

Gibiers Hermes Scarf by Henri de Linares 90cm Silk Twill w/BOX – AVAILABLE
Early Issue Gibiers Hermès carre – SOLD
Early Issue Gibiers Hermès carre – SOLD
Gibiers Hermès carre – SOLD

GRANDE TENUE HERMES SCARF BY HENRI D’ORIGNY

The Grande Tenue, In Full Dress, as it were, does not refer to a stylish blazer and a pleaded skirt, but rather the broadcloth covers or stable blankets, here neatly held together by leather straps and decorated with emblems and monograms identifying the owners and their stables. Thanks to Émile Hermès, the Parisian Fashion House, boasts quite a large collection of these emblems. Several of which are represented on this iconic Hermès design from 1985 by Henri d’Origny (re-issued due to its popularity numerous times).

Grande Tenue Hermes scarf was designed by Henri d’Origny in 1985 and reissued numerous times since

Napoleon III is represented opposite a lion emerging from a crown in the upper right corner. Other emblems are of a Romanian prince, a maharaja as well as one of a viscount, represented by a more graphic design on the upper left broadcloth.

At the center of course the monogram of the curator and collector himself, Émile Hermès, whose passion for collecting has inspired numerous scarf designs, among them for example, the Ecuries, Presentation de Chevaux and the Carrick a Pompe (links are provided for further reading).

The Grande Tenue makes up for what it lacks in rarity meter by its popularity. This is a design available in a wide range of colorways ranging from bold and vibrant to classic and elegant. Hence making it one of the most loved and recognized of Hermes designs.

Grande Tenue Hermes Carre – SOLD

CHATEAUX D’ARRIERE Hermès carre

The title of the CHATEAUX D’ARRIERE carre that Julia Abadie designed for Hermès in 1974 can be at first glance confusing.

Why?

There are ships but no “châteaux” featured in this bold design.

That is because in French château(x) d’arrière means sterncastle(s), which is also known as after- or aftcastle, typically a quite ornate rear portion of a sailing ship. This part of the ship houses the captains cabin and possibly those of other high ranking officers.
Le Soleil Royal (Château arrière) 17th century flagship of the French Royal Fleet (photo courtesy http://theudericus.free.fr/)

Madame Abadie is not the only Hermès artist to feature this typically highly ornate part of a sailing ship, the Château Arrière, in her design; others have done as well.

Here are some rather opulent examples – enjoy.

France Hermès carre by Christiane Vauzelles from 1962 – SOLD
The popular and quite stunning Hermes La Reale – Vue du Carrosse de la Galère by Hugo Grygkar was first issued in 1953 – SOLD
Rare Hermes Armada silk scarf by Christiane Vauzelles from 1976 – SOLD
The La Marine a Rames Hermes scarf was started by Philippe Ledoux and finished after his death in 1975 by his nephew Vladimir Rybaltchenko – SOLD
Marie-Françoise Héron designed the Grande Marine in 1979 – SOLD

La France HERMES Carre by Francoise de la Perriere 1959

Even before I could read, maps captured my imagination. Neither the heaviness nor its size ever stopped me from pulling the oversized atlas from among the smaller books until I managed to place it safely on the rug in front of me. Its pages provided endless opportunities for incredible journeys at first following such guides as Robin Crusoe and later Jacque Cousteau.

So it is no wonder that even today I am immediately drawn to designs like the La Cite Cavaliere or the La France.

La Cite Cavaliere Hermes Scarf Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 – Personal Collection

Sixty years its senior, to me the de la Perriere creation is as captivating as the Marsal.

La France Hermes carre – AVAILABLE

In her 1959 design, Françoise de la Perriere highlights the various regions of France and represents them skillfully and beautifully with symbols for each area. There is so much to behold here; from the Monche (The Channel) in the north to the Mediterranean in the south, from the Atlantic in the west to the Vosges in the East…

But lets begin with the rooster at the center, the Coq Gaulois, the longtime unofficial symbol of France. From here we can travel to Notre Dame, then Mont Sainct Michele and end at Château of Chambord.

The fairylike Château of Chambord in the Loire Valley (photo courtesy Wikipedia
Mont-Saint-Michel (Photo courtese Amaustan – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=79528206)

Madame de la Perrier did not forget France’s mountain regions with the Pyrenees bordering Spain, the Alps Italy and Switzerland, and the Vosges Germany.

France’s famous wine regions are also all represented here; Bordeaux, Champagne, Loire Valley, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Alsace (Rhine) and Rhone. We are also reminded of France’s long tradition with horses and horseback riding with the cowboy from the Camargue region in the South, polo gear representing Chantilly and a jockey competing at a race at Ateuil.

Nature’s bounty and epicurean cuisine are of course also included as are other iconic architectural works. Altogether they showcase France’s riches and together they allow us to travel from destination to destination, pausing here and there, enjoying and discovering the wonder of Madame de la Perriere’s creation.

I will dare to suggest that the fashion House itself is represented here in the form of a carriage
Bravo Madame de la Perrière et merci beaucoup!
LA FRANCE HERMES CARRE BY FRANCOISE DE LA PERRIERE 1959 – SOLD

CErès HermÈs CarrÉ by Francoise faconnet

Ceres Hermes scarf by the fabulously talented Francoise Faconnet doesn’t have anything to do with the dwarf planet nor the city in central California as you might already suspect.

Ceres Hermes scarf designed by Françoise Faconnet in 1967 – here an original issue

The Hermes Ceres is depicting the Roman Goddess by the same name. Ceres was the goddess of agriculture, fertility, grains, harvest, motherhood, and the earth and the Roman counterpart to the Greek Goddess Demeter. She is believed to have ended the unsettled wandering and lawless lifestyle of our predecessors and was credited to have given mankind agriculture and a new, civilized, way of living. The Romans celebrated and made sacrifices to Ceres throughout the year, from ploughing fields, to planting seeds up to harvest time.

The biggest festival in her honor, the Cerealia, was held from mid to late April and lasted several days. It took place at Circus Maximus, the large Roman stadium typically reserved for chariot racing. This annual festival involved some unusual pagan rituals like foxes running with lit torches tied to their tails or one that represented Ceres’ lost daughter Proserpina symbolized by a maiden running around dressed in white. Loving foxes since I was a little girl, I definitely prefer Lawrence Alma-Tadema’s version below.

Spring (1894) by Lawrence Alma-Tadema, depicting the Cerealia in a Roman street (courtesy J. Paul Getty Museum)

Francoise Faconnet’s placed her grain goddess at the center of her design and surrounded her with life’s overflowing bounty and beauty.

The grain goddess Ceres is at the center of this late 1960s design
CERES HERMES SCARF BY FRANCOISE FACONNET 90 CM SILK TWILL ORIGINAL ISSUE – Available $299