Searching the world over, well Europe for now, to bring you hand-selected vintage and pre-owned Hermès scarves and more …
Hugo Grygkar not only designed the very first carré for Hermès, but he also became Hermès’ most prolific artist. You can read more about the life of this artist and his profound influence on the Hermes carre on my blog by following this link.
Like so many of the early carres, the Panache & Fantaisie showcases horses, a favorite theme, that reflects the Parisian Fashion House’s origins as a harness and saddle maker.
This beautifully detailed composition of show horses with various plumes is worthy of framing.
Without further ado, enjoy close ups of this iconic and highly sought after carre…
Hermes Silk Scarf Le Laisser Courre Black Colorway
Fougerolle and first issued in 1979. Here most likely a 1993 reissue. – excellent vintage condition – copyright – care tag – signed – a couple of very faint fold lines near center
Le Laisser Courre, Let it Run, Hermes scarf conjures up such fond memories of my childhood. Having central European roots and uncles, who were avid hunters, I inevitably grew up around hounds. My favorite, Dorn!
Named Thorn, after getting himself caught up in brambles as a young pup, Dorn and I were inseparable. For both the young pup and the outdoor loving little girl, it was love at first sight, a love that would last a lifetime.
Here in loving memory of Dorn, I would like to share this very special carre, Le Laisser Courre, Let it Run. O boy, and how he could run…
Le Laisser Courre, Let it Run, Hermes scarf was designed by Jean de Fougerolle and first issued in 1979. Here most likely a 1993 reissue – SOLD
Perhaps by now you and I, both, realize how much I LOVE Charles Hallo.
I too, like so many of you, love animals. So, hunting is not an option for me personally. Although I had uncles, who were avid hunters. I preferred the zoo to a shotgun and I grew up with so many animals, domestic and farm and some wild. Dogs, cats, rabbits, geese, pigeons, deer whose mother had been killed, a baby chick owl, I am sure I am forgetting many. Hedgehog, yes! I gave a baby hedgehog a “bath” once, until my Grandma caught me and put an end to that! And how can I forget the chickens. I once had a blind chick as a pet…
Anyway, I have been working in my studio here, putting a video together, posting, answering emails, blogging when I realized how touched I am by Monsieur Hallo’s work. Yes, I absolutely adore the Courbettes e Cabrioles that I just posted a short video of, but there is something “personal”, something that strikes a cord when I see and hold a Hallo scarf. I was not aware of it per se until I just listed his Episodes de la Chasse à Courre from 1961. Mesmerized, I went over every detail of his carre. Would not want to miss a single line. Could it be my fond memories of times gone by? Could it be the pen drawings of my very talented cousin, whose deer leapt of his note book pages?
Well whatever it is, I hope that you too will enjoy this latest addition to our Charles Jean Hallo Collection…
You may have an HERMES scarf that has been forgotten in a drawer for years or you may have been given one as a gift that is just not “your thing”. In any case, you have an Hermès scarf and you wonder what is it worth?
Well, the simple answer is, whatever a buyer is willing and able to pay for your scarf at any given time. Oh, you want a real value, I see…
So, here are some guidelines. Some very obvious and some perhaps not so much.
Let’s have a look…
The Équipements Civils et Militaires carre is from 1948. That’s a 70 year old scarf!!! There are not that many scarves around that are that old, let alone in excellent condition. Naturally the older, or more vintage your scarf is, typically the higher the value. For our discussion, the term vintage describes scarves from when Hermes first introduced the carre (1937) to 1998 (20 years before present day).
In addition to its age, your scarf’s condition plays a big role in determining its value. An unworn scarf with the care tag (if applicable) still attached in its original box or tote will for obvious reasons fetch much more than one with color runs, a hole and several pulled threads – common sense.
Condition and age are logical, but what about other factors, perhaps less obvious ones, that may also influence a scarf’s desirability and ultimately its value.
A certain colorway may be more rare or more sought after. The year of issue can also play a big role. Lets use one of my favorites, The Le Bois de Boulogne designed by Hugo Grygkar in 1957, as an example.
The same design was re-issued in the early 1980s in darker colors without the black background behind the swans resulting in a less dynamic scarf.
In this example, an original issue Bois de Bologne in inferior condition may be priced/valued equally or even higher than a reissue in better condition, simply because of its esthetic appearance (better colorway and black behind swans).
Another factor that may affect value is location – geography. Some scarves are more sought after in different parts of the world than others.
Kermit Oliver’s scarves depicting the American West are very popular in the US. His Texas Wildlife, for example has only recently gained the same momentum in Europe as it has enjoyed here in the US.
Timing is another factor than can influence perhaps not the value per se, but what someone might be willing to pay for your Texas Wildlife. Leading up to Thanksgiving this design attracts a lot of potential buyers. More buyers = higher demand = higher price tag. This is true for other seasonal scarves, such as the Noel au 24 Faubourg, Joies d’Hiver, Neige d’Antan and Plumes et Grelots for example.
It must be mentioned, that there are certain scarves that are simply more “coveted” than their sisters and cousins. Many times you will hear the word Grail to describe a scarf, such as the Hommage a l’Explorateur Sir Ernest Shackleton for example, designed by Zoe Pauwels and issued in 2005.
Very difficult to find, the “Shackleton” is definitely a modern Grail carre. Although there is a consensus on a number of scarves that are in the Grail category, like the Shackleton for example, this Grail list can, however, be subjective. What one collector may consider a Grail, another may not. I personally try to be very careful not to overuse this label. This includes describing a scarf “rare” or “very rare” can be somewhat subjective as well and again, I try to use them cautiously in my descriptions.
What scarves are on your GRAIL list, I wonder?
This post would not be complete, if I did not mention the role the artist/designer can have on the value or popularity of a scarf. Annie Faivre for example has a very large and loyal following around the globe. Kermit Oliver whose scarves celebrate the American West, are not necessarily all considered rare, but are quite popular and in demand.
Another highly sought after artist is Xavier de Poret, whose scarves are considered very rare. Famous for his pencil drawings, 5 of his carres (Les Levriers or Greyhounds and Mesanges to name just two), out of a group of nearly 30, are widely considered as the “rarest” of Hermes scarves.
I should also mention the Jacquards, which Hermes stopped producing in 2001 due to high production costs and only last year, 2017, began to issue jacquards in limited quantities, now called Tattoos. A separate post on that coming soon.
A jacquard scarf will typically either sell faster or for more than its twill cousin or possibly both. But just like the twills, the Jacquards as a group range in value based on the same criteria already mentioned.
Some top sellers in this category are Napoleon and La Cle de Champs and lets not forget the seasonal favorites (Joies d’Hiver, Neige d’Antan and Plumes et Grelots).
Last but not least, HERMES periodically issues scarves as a Special Issue (slight variation on an existing design) or a Limited Issue (limited quantities produced), both of course can heavily influence the desirability, availability and ultimately the value of that particular scarf.
In closing, it is important to keep in mind that any given value will fluctuate over time. Remember when way back in the 80s a brand new carre was somewhere around $140? Today the retail price for a 90cm twill carre is $395 US.
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Take a journeys through time in Pierre Marie’s Le Laboratoire du Temps Laboratory. You will be mazed whom you will find and what you will discover along the way.
Is Leonardo painting the Mona Lisa? Do I hear Mozart playing the piano? And over there is that Mr. Armstrong? “How does it feel to be the first man to walk on the moon?” I want to ask.
From dinosaurs to great discoveries both on land and in laboratories, they all are captured here in 45 round vignettes.
Of course there is room for whimsy in a time laboratory, too as we spy a shopper leaving Hermes in 2012 and in 1937, the birth year of the carre, Émile-Maurice Hermes is inspecting one of his store windows.
And what kind of Time Laboratory would it be if you could not have a glimpse into the future?
So much to see, so much to enjoy…
Discover your favorite place in history at Laboratoire du Temps!
Antoine Tzapoff created this gorgeous Hermes Silk Scarf. It is called Apparat Des Plaines from 2015 and comes with a Box – like new condition
As I reflect on 2017, I need to share the one scarf from last year that stole my heart – immediately.
As many of you know, my true love belongs to the vintage Hermes scarves! But every so often a new one comes along that steals my heart. And when I wandered last summer into Hermes, my eyes immediately fell upon Aline Honore’s creation. As a matter of fact when I was asked which scarf I wanted to see, I muttered “this one, please” pointing at the amazing Parures de Samouraïs. As the store clerk unfolded it in front of me, the vibrant colors were simply mesmerizing. A rainbow of pinks and blues with a hint of chartreuse and raspberry filled the entire store. Like a small child my eyes were dashing across the scarf from one amazing detail to the next. I regained my senses, when I heard, “And would you like to see anything else?” “No”, I heard myself almost yelling…
With my orange tote in hand, I was skipping happily back to my car.
If you have not seen it, it really is spectacular and the detail astounding.
Apparently, I was not the only one smitten with this carre as it quickly sold out worldwide.
coming soon to Carre de Paris: 2 GRAIL scarves