In Europe now …

Searching the world over, well Europe for now, to bring you hand-selected vintage and pre-owned Hermès scarves and more …

The Enchanted world of VALÉRIE Dawlat Dumoulin after HERMÈS

Since I wrote a short biography about Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin in my post in May of 2018, I have had the distinct pleasure to make her acquaintance!

As a longtime fan, you can only imagine my delight and how honored I felt having received an email from her! And with that a wonderful relationship began. 

Valerie Dawlat

In her own words …

« When I discovered Carrés de Paris on the Internet, I was so surprised and delighted to read the chapter on my work as a carré artist, that I decided to come in contact with the founder of this lovely and well documented website.

That is how our relationship came to life, with a mutual understanding and taste for the same HERMÈS vintage carrés.

Unfortunately, at the dramatic departure of Jean-Louis Dumas, Hermès emblematic and charismatic CEO, my ten years collaboration was soon over.

I explain to Carrés de Paris, that I was still creating but in a different way : I am, since almost two years, inventing and manufacturing custom jewellery and Carrés de Paris loved them so much that a decision was taken to give them exposure on their website. 

I proposed to associate visually my vintage carrés designs that are for sale at Carrés de Paris to one of my  jewels, and voilà, « just like that », that is how it is all started, how exciting !!! »

Valérie Dawlat Dumoulin 

Here is an introduction to the enchanted world of Madame Valérie … enjoy

IMPOSE TA CHANCE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & BEEARUM BROOCH AVAILABLE
Impose ta Chance Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Beearum Brooch
AVAILABLE
NOUVELLE CALEDONIE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & PAPILLON PAON BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Nouvelle Caledonie Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Papillon Paon Brooch – AVAILABLE
ROCCAILE SPECIAL ISSUE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN & PIC EPEICHE BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Roccaile Special Issue Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Pic Epeiche Brooch
AVAILABLE
JARDIN CREOLE HERMES SCARF BY VALERIE DAWLAT-DUMOULIN 90 CM SILK & DEMOISELLE KAKI BROOCH – AVAILABLE
Jardin Creole Hermès carré by Valérie Dawlat-Dumoulin avec Demoiselle Kaki Brooch – AVAILABLE

Always an artist, Valérie has created numerous collages and paintings, but more recently discovered a new passion in creating custom jewelry. At first she salvaged and repurposed all of her own jewelry, and as popularity of her one-of-a-kind jewelry grew in her native France, she began to search for unique vintage bits and pieces at flea markets and thrift shops. Self-taught and with an exquisite eye for both beauty and design, she as with her Hermès scarf designs drew her inspiration from flowers, insects, eternal symbols like hearts and crosses, the sea and marine life. She skillfully combines unexpected items with copper wire and magically gives new life to butterflies, flowers and dragonflies!

Merci Mme Valérie de continuer à enrichir notre monde avec de nouvelles créations et une beauté époustouflante.
Ladi

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON

We have all seen the timpanist, some of use “love” this design, some of us are indifferent and the rest … well …

I used to belong to the “rest … well” group. Even as a lover of macrame during me teen years, and as a lifelong crocheter and knitter, I just could not embrace this design.

Perhaps it was the lack of symmetry and repetition that somehow prevented me from appreciating this 1961 Marie-Françoise Héron design.

But looking at it through a different lens, the lens of possibilities, I can finally see and appreciate the beauty of Madame Héron’s timpanist.

The Le Timbalier Hermès carre is gorgeous whether in bold colors or this season’s soft pastels. The suggested textures add to its versatility and culminate in a fabulous scarf and accessory. One that lends itself to be draped and played with in so many creative ways, each time offering a new fresh look.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

Well Hermès decided to re-issue it this season in various colorways and at $470 it has been flying off the shelves and is currently only available in selected boutiques and no longer online.

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

But do not despair! You can find a 1990s issue in pristine unworn condition at our eBoutique, Carre de Paris © .

Here is what Hermès© has to say about the Inspiration for this truly iconic Hermès Classic:

Until the end of the Second Empire, the role of the timpanist was to provide the drum beat for French cavalry regiments. The drummer in full dress featured in the center of this scarf, designed in 1961 by Marie-Françoise Héron, plays his instrument with panache. The royal coat of arms with two interlaced L’s seen on his drum evokes the 18th century. The horse, too, is exuberantly dressed. The ceremonial saddle and bridle, like the surround, are ornamented with sumptuous decorative trimmings: lanyards, braids, fringes and twisted cords, not forgetting cartisanes – wooden discs adorned with silver, gold or silk threads.

© Hermès 2022. All rights reserved

LE TIMBALIER HERMES SCARF BY MARIE-FRANCOISE HERON 90 CM SILK NIB – AVAILABLE

Hommage a l’Explorateur Sir Ernest Shackleton

Here for now are some photos of the one and only Hommage a l’Explorateur Sir Ernest Shackleton by Zoe Pauwels, a Special Edition/Issue scarf from 2005.

More about this truly special and considered by many a GRAIL Hermès carré a little later. But in the meantime here are some photos for your enjoyment…

La Cite Cavaliere Hermes carre

As with so many Hermès designs, La Cite Cavaliere carre by Marsal Octave from 2019/2020 immediately captured my imagination.

Hermès La Cite Cavaliere Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (personal collection)

Perhaps it was the etching style of this whimsical map of Paris before me, that immediately took my mind back to the many fond memories I have of the City of Lights. While in New York visiting a dear friend, my daughter and I wandered around Chelsea, when I asked, “Want to see what’s new at Hermès”? As soon as we walked into the fashionable Chelsea boutique, we were drawn to the glass counter with its numerous folded carres below. Collectively, our eyes settled on the La Cite Cavaliere. For the Inspiration for this design, please visit my previous blog.

And as much as many of the colorways were difficult to resist, there was one, that undeniably stood out from the rest…

The reason for this post however, is not to write about this absolutely captivating design, but to bring attention to the FAKEs that have begun to infiltrate the market.

Please find below photos of one such FAKE and photos of an authentic Hermès La Cite Cavaliere in the stunning colorway of Green Clay and Steel Gray.

I hate to admit that this is a rather “well” made FAKE and one that at first sight can easily fool the best among us. It was one of my dear friends, a longtime Hermès collector herself, who in her haste and enthusiasm to have found her very own Green Clay colorway, mailed it to me. As soon as I held it, I noticed the feel of the silk as being lighter and somewhat “silkier” than I have learned to expect. This of course peaked my interests and curiosity immediately and I fetched my authentic La Cite Cavaliere.

Of course once one knows what to look for, the differences become rather “obvious”. Hopefully these side-by-side photos will help you navigate and discern what is the real deal. If not, I am always happy to provide Authentication Services for a nominal fee.

Left is a FAKE, whereas on the right is a photo of my authentic Hermès La Cite Cavaliere carre. Please note the difference not just in the colors, but detail of the print itself, the type set, not to mention “quality” and color of the hem.
Left a FAKE, right again, my authentic Hermès carre. Note the “bleed through” on the back side, the hem and care tag on the FAKE. The La Cite Cavaliere was introduced in 2019/2020; by then Hermès had switched to the larger two-sided care tag, the FAKE still has the previously used smaller care tag.
There is no “bleed through” on the authentic Hermès carre on the right, the hem is beautifully hand sewn, and the two-sided larger care tag is the care tag that Hermès switched over to a couple of years ago.
Here a close up of Octave Marsal’s signature. The authentic carre is on top of the FAKE for comparison. Again in this close up the difference in the hem “construction” is not to be missed along with the difference in print quality, type set and detail and of course again, the colors themselves.
I think not much needs to be said here… (authentic Hermès copyright on the left, FAKE on the right)
In this comparison the authentic Hermès carre is on the left, while the crude FAKE is lacking in all that makes an Hermès carre such a prized “commodity”, and as I prefer to refer to the Hermès carre, a Wearable piece of Art.
La Cite Cavaliere Hermès Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (SOLD)
La Cite Cavaliere Hermès Silk Scarf – Designed by Octave Marsal 2019/2020 (SOLD)

Folklore Hermes Carre by henri d’Origny

The Folklore Hermès carre was designed by accomplished artist and Hermès Artistic Director Henri d’Origny, who has a number of designs to his name including ties, jewelry and of course many famous carres.

His Eperon d’Or is a sure Must-Have – SOLD

Many of his designs are inspired by the Fashion House’s love affair with saddlery and equestrian paraphernalia, but not his Folklore scarf. Instead of bits and stirrups, we find birds and flowers. Well, I stand corrected, Monsieur d’Origny does manage to squeeze a reference to equestrianism into each corner of his Folklore design.


But what did inspire this design? I cannot help but be reminded of my grandmother’s “Zwiebelmuster” or “cibulak” drawings; watching her quietly sitting at her large wooden kitchen table, following each of her lines with my imaginary paintbrush.

The popular “Blue Onion’ pattern on Meissen Porcelain has been in production since the 18th century
(photo courtesy Kaolin, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

According to Hermès, Henri d’Origny drew his inspiration on

“…popular Russian and Polish imagery, mixed freely with motifs from his own imagination, Henri d’Origny’s design is an appeal to the Slavic soul, while at the same time expressing his own deep attachment to the equestrian arts. Flowers and stylized birds, bright colors and branching forms are framed with harness straps and braid work in this joyous, multicolored design.”

courtesy © Hermès

Folklore Hermès silk scarf by Henri d’Origny (1980 – 1st issue) – Rare – SOLD

FLEURS ET CARLINES HERMES SCARF BY RYBALTCHENKO

The perhaps lesser known Fleurs et Carlines Hermes carre celebrates a common weed, the Carline thistle.

Carlina vulgaris or the Carlina Thistle that inspired a stunning Hermes carre
Photo Courtesy Wikipedia Commons (Harald Süpfle / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)
Fleurs et Carlines Hermes silk scarf (100% silk) –  RARE Vintage

Who would have thought a Carline thistle could look this good!

This particular thistle, the Carlina, is a flowering plant in the aster family and native to Europe, northern Africa and Asia all the way to Siberia. The plant including its roots is believed to have healing properties which include relieving gastrointestinal issues, stimulating bile flow and cleansing the liver of fatty deposits. Swedish Bitters, which uses the root extract of the plant, has been used for centuries as a gastrointestinal tonic. The plant has also been valued for its antibacterial qualities.

In Vladimir Rybaltchenko’s design the Carline thistle takes center stage as she rises regally above a canopy of wild daisies.

With the Fleurs et Carlines around your neck you can savor the upcoming change of seasons. Enveloped by cheery spring colors even the gloomiest of early spring days will feel sunnier and brighter.

The Carline thistle takes center stage in the Fleurs et Carlines Hermes scarf from 1985

Designed by Vladimir Rybaltchenko (1939 – 2002), who signed his famous designs simply as RYBAL, was the great-nephew of Philippe Ledoux and father of Dimitri Rybaltchenko; All renowned Hermes artists, who have created some of the most memorable designs for the Parisian Fashion House.

Les Quatre Saisons Hermes Carre

Les Quatre Saisons Hermes Carre by Robert Dallet, the very gifted and self-taught artist, who has brought us so many popular scarves like the Sichuan, Tanzanie, Jungle Love and many more. For other scarves by Monsieur Dallet, please follow this link.

Here is his much beloved Les Quatre Saisons Hermes Scarf from the 1994/1995 Collection.

From The Le Carré Hermès Paris Booklet:

The swallows have come back, the days are getting longer, the countryside is blooming. It’s spring! But summer is already here, like a flight of pink flamingos in the skies of the Camargue. Little by little, azure glows with purple and gold: autumn has arrived. The squirrel stores his nuts, the duck flown in from the north alight on the pond. The woodcock slips away into the dusk. Mists float over the meadows, Winter unfolds its cloak of white, and all is at an end – until the cycle begins again.

© Hermès 1994. All rights reserved

LES QUATRE SAISONS HERMES SCARF BY ROBERT DALLET 90CM SILK – SOLD

New Orleans (Creole Jazz) Hermes Scarf

New Orleans (aka New Orleans Creole Jazz) Hermes silk scarf by Loïc Dubigeon from 1996 (reissued in 2006) 

Another gorgeous design by Loic Dubigeon springs to life as jazz Greats from Louis Armstrong to Jimmy Noone (and Lil Hardin) are immortalized with stunning detail. The New Orleans, its official name, carre was part of the 1996 collection. According to the fashion House, The New Orleans silk scarf was printed in limited edition to aid the Louisiana Historical Society with a percentage proceeds from sales going to the new Orleans City Park Carousel Restoration Project.

Louis Daniel Armstrong (August 4, 1901 – July 6, 1971), nicknamed “Satchmo” or “Satch“, and “Pops“, was an American trumpeter, composer, vocalist, and actor who was among the most influential figures in jazz (courtesy Wikipedia)

This very popular design, is coveted not just by musicians, but by Hermes lovers around the world. And as recognizable as the New Orleans carre is, its unusual history may not be so well known.

When it was first issued in 1996, Mrs. Louis Armstrong’s name was misspelled as Harding rather than the correct Hardin.

Lil (Lillian) Hardin, the second wife of Louis Armstrong, was not just married one of the greatest jazz musicians of all time, she was a very accomplished jazz composer and musician herself and widely recognized as the first major female jazz instrumentalist.

The 1996 issue of New Orleans with the misspelled last name is widely available. In 2006 in an effort to help support the re-building of New Orleans’ famed City Park after Hurricane Katrina, Hermes reissued this design in only three colorways, orange being one of them. The 2006 reissue thankfully has the correct spelling, HARDIN.

It is the corrected reissue, that is quite obscure and consequently, sought after by collectors.

New Orleans HERMES carre – 2006 reissue with the correct spelling of Ms Hardin’s name – personal collection

The 1996 Hermes carre booklet has this to say:

New Orleans (and not New Orleans Creole Jazz as it is often called)
New Orleans, the cradle of jazz. At the turn of the century the strolling fanfare of brass and wind instruments settled in the bars, joined by piano, the double bass and the drums, for a jam session to wake the dead. It was the age of the blues, and their spirit atill haunts the famous riverboats, why ply the Mississippi, and whose paddles churn to the legendary names of Louis Armstron, King Oliver, Johnny Dodds and many others”

copyright HERMES Paris, 1996

SOLD

PANACHE & FANTAISIE by Hugo Grygkar

If you love horses, you will undoubtedly love the Panache & Fantaisie carre, which was designed by the talented Hugo Grygkar and issued for the first time in 1958/1959.

PANACHE & FANTAISIE by Hugo Grygkar, the Father of the Hermes Carre. (1958)

Hugo Grygkar not only designed the very first carré for Hermès, but he also became Hermès’ most prolific artist. You can read more about the life of this artist and his profound influence on the Hermes carre on my blog by following this link.

Like so many of the early carres, the Panache & Fantaisie showcases horses, a favorite theme, that reflects the Parisian Fashion House’s origins as a harness and saddle maker.

This beautifully detailed composition of show horses with various plumes is worthy of framing.

Without further ado, enjoy close ups of this iconic and highly sought after carre…

Like so many other Hermes scarves, the Panache & Fantaisie took its inspiration from an artifact, a harness with a sleigh bell, which is now part of the Emile-Maurice Hermes collection (photo courtesy Mitto e Belezza, Electa)
The Panache et Fantaisie was part of the Mito e Bellezza Exhibition in Italy
Panache & Fantaisie HERMES, 1959
Panache & Fantaisie HERMES, 1958/1959 – SOLD