According to a 1984 Neiman-Marcus article it was out of a collaborative effort between the Parisian Fashion House and the American luxury retailer, that the Pani La Shar Pawnee was conceived.

Lawrence Marcus, the then head of Neiman-Marcus, had been a huge fan and a long-time collector of Kermit Oliver’s paintings. 

Knowing that Hermès had wanted to produce a Southwestern themed scarf for some time, it was he, who introduced the talented Texan to Jean-Louis Dumas, the charismatic visionary responsible for revolutionizing Hermès.  So, it is perhaps no surprise then that Marcus and Dumas enlisted Oliver to create the Pani La Shar Pawnee so indicative of not just Oliver’s talents, but his fascination with the Pawnee tribe. 

Interestingly of course, but most likely not coincidentally, is the fact that the Pawnees were the first indigenous tribe exposed to French culture!

Three years in the making, this GRAIL carré reflects Kermit Oliver’s beautiful attention to detail, his sublime artistry and creativity. Out of his meticulous research of the Pawnee tribe, his horsemen mimic Norman conquerors inspired by 11th century Bayeux tapestries as they gallop around the scarf’s border.

According to the article once the six-member design committee at Hermès had accepted the sketches, whereby Oliver had the final approval of the screens, a prototype of the scarf was flown to Dallas. And so, the incomparable Pani La Shar Pawnee was born.

“Is it a scarf, or a piece of art?” The article concludes …

My answer “a wearable piece of art”...

Pani La Shar Pawnee Hermès Scarf (100% silk) – GRAIL  
Designed by Kermit Oliver in 1984; here a recent double sided re-issue – coming soon